View Full Version : The difference between travelers and tourists: A mexican experience.
Ritten
05-29-2006, 11:05 PM
Ok, here it is. I don't yet have all the pictures, so the story is just going to have to do until they make it into the report. Brian mentioned signing up on the site, so he may just post them then. I'm going to try and finish this in only a few days, so please excuse any cliffhangers you may get if you start reading while I'm sleeping....lol
The alarm went off at 4:30am sharp and gave me just enough time to finish packing. I had arranged the clothes that I was going to wear the night before and still had my gear hanging to dry so I would be able to start out nice and clean. The bike was awaiting the start of the trip with the mods and gear that I decided at the last minute to add on. The Jesse top box I had gotten free during a promotion last year and although it's big and cumbersome, I figured the extra storage might come in handy. There she was, like a labrador on the morning of the hunt...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/c4444a92.jpg
We had agreed to meet at my house and try to leave around 6am. Since I was able to come home early, it gave us an entire extra day at the beginning of the trip. I rolled out the bike and soon Brian showed up just in time to test out some walkie talkies on the autocom systems. Bike to bike communication would be pretty nice, but due to a lack of reading directions, neither of us had any idea how to work them.
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So, with the radios in the boxes to try and figure out later, we hit the road and headed west. Of course you have to get pictures at the first gas stops, since it will be (and surly was) the cleanest you'll see the bikes...
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We hit the state line and pulled over for just a second to grab a picture...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8297.jpg
Traffic just before Beaumont is always slow due to residual road construction and that Wednesday was no different. Bumper to bumper and we were really wishing that Texas allowed lane splitting. It was hot as all #!($...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8298.jpg
Pretty soon we were through it though and running at a good pace. Hell, it only took us about 30min. to get through Houston itself!!
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8300.jpg
Our stomachs were telling us it was lunch time, so we pulled over to grab some grub and top off the camelbacks. Might as well start off the Mexican food early right?
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8302.jpg
So, of course I get a chicken sandwich and fries. Understand that it's customary for adventure riders to take pictures of your food, so you'll see a good bit of it during this report. If you only see the bottom of the plate, it's cause we were too hungry to take a picture before.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8303.jpg
Later on that evening we had rolled into Laredo, Tx and found a quaint little place for the night. I shouldn't have been, but I was amazed at how much spanish we were seeing already and were still in the states. Sure, the border was a mile and a half away, but I wasn't expecting it to be THAT bad. Just to be on the safe side, we pulled the ole' first floor, outside room, trick. Worked like a charm...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8309.jpg
This picture just goes to show one of the loopholes in the masculinity code of behavior. "It's perfectly acceptable for a man/men to watch Sex In the City as long as his motorcycle is between him and the television set."
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After a dinner at the local restaurant, it was time to try and subdue all of the butterflies that had built up over the past 6 months and try to get some sleep. Tomorrow we would be stepping over the threshold of our comfort zone.
Ritten
05-29-2006, 11:58 PM
The south Texas morning was just as one would expect it......hot and muggy. We loaded the bikes early knowing that it would take time on the other side of the border to get our visas and the bike permits to ride into the country.
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As we rode the mile to the border I couldn't help but to get a bit sentimental when I looked up to see this...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8314.jpg
We passed through the US side without a problem, of course, and were the only vehicles going into Mexico at that point. The halfway point on the bridge. On the right is the US and on the left is 'ole Mehico.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8315.jpg
There was traffic backed up a few blocks or so to get into our great country...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8316.jpg
Now, from other reports I've heard that immigration was located RIGHT NEXT to the border crossing, but of course you can't find it. We finally located where we could get our passports checked out, and then with the help of some pointing and motions, found out where we could go for the permits. It WAS right next to the border but you had to go through town and make a big circle to get to it. Finally, we found it and got all the paperwork taken care of...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8317.jpg
This was to be our last glimpse of home for the next nine days...
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We had decided early on that we wouldn't let the gas tanks get below a third and starting out we wanted to make sure we were full, so we pulled into the first Pemex we see, and top off. My first notice is that I'm not the one who's going to be pumping my gas. There are attendants at each pump to do just that. I worry about how delicate the GS is to top off without covering the tank with petro, but the attendants are ace's at controlling the pumps.
We decide that breakfast would also be a good idea so we grab some chicken, eggs w/ ham, and pork and potatos stuff in the station. It was AWESOME, and the only picture I got was the really, REALLY hot salsa and the Mexican version of Diet Coke...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8319.jpg
Full, in more ways than one, we head south. Not very far down the highway the mountains come into view on the horizon...
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Since Brian was the one who planned the trip, spoke better spanish, and knew the name of the city we were going to......he took point for most of the way. We were making good time though.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8323.jpg
At this point I noticed that the highways were becoming a bit cleaner than what we saw just south of Nuevo Laredo. When we crossed the border, the filth of the town brought a strong feeling of dread over me and really set a somber mood for what I should be expecting out of this country. The sights that you would think you see only in a third world country are only feet outside the borders of our own. Nuevo Laredo was not a city I wanted to get caught up in, and my spirits were lifting the further we got from it. The sight of peaks towering in the distance is always one that brings a smile to my face as well.
The "W.T.F." look on Brian's face here came back whenever we encountered someone who mistook us for spanish speaking gringos...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8325.jpg
For lunch, we found a small roadside restaurant and continued with our one word food orders. I had packed an electronic translator that I thought would come in handy, but due to either really bad pronounciations, or being given the wrong word......we got alot of "W.T.F." looks as well.
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A picture looking down the road from our lunch stop. The blacktop was very smooth and dusty, so grip was at a bare minimum. One could even hear car tires squeeling everytime one would make a corner.
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We rode on through Monterrey and got caught up in some VERY hot and congested traffic. My best advice is to steer clear of the city unless you have business in it!!
Later on that afternoon, on our way to Real de Catorce, we passed an RS going in the opposite direction!! He was loaded down with gear and boxes as well and when we noticed him making a U turn behind us, we pulled over. Hector, come to find out, is Canadian and riding his way down to Venezuela. We chatted for a bit and shared our plans to see if he might be going the same way.
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Although he was going in the opposite direction, it was nice to speak with another english speaking human. I asked him about his headlight and he informed us that he picked up a rock somewhere up in the states. I was glad to have my TT lightguard after seeing that.
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We said our fairwells and headed off towards the mountains.
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We stopped a few times along the way to double check the maps with the GPS and make sure we wouldn't miss the road. The small mountain communities were scattered but plentiful.
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Lonehorn.........here's the ass you wanted. Down there the donkeys are all over the sides of the road. Domestic and wild ones. Whichever you like.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8345.jpg
We were getting higher and higher in elevation over the course of a few miles, and the terrain turned to desert. Joshua trees were all over and at one point the road runs through what can only be described as a forest of them.
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Here we were just coming out of the forest on the right...
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One of the newer places of business around. It appeared to be a service shop for the big rigs...
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I wonder if this guy got his stuff serviced there.
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The wreck reminded us to keep a good eye on the road and watch for anything, but it wouldn't suprise me if it was caused by a blowout, or mechanical failure.
Kids always seemed interested in the bikes, and at times the adults were just as curious.
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Ritten
05-30-2006, 12:43 AM
Real de Catorce is located at about 9100' up in the mountains and the easiest way to get there is along a stone road. Not gravel, and not rocks, but a road that was BUILT with stones...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8355.jpg
Starting out on the road it felt like some really bad washboard on a gravel road. It was extremely rough on the suspension and the only way to take it was over 50mph. Things smoothed out at the higher speeds and standing on the pegs helped alot.
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The clouds got darker and darker, and after about 5 miles I noticed it was starting to sprinkle rain.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8358.jpg
Now we were riding over hard, rough, WET stones and I didn't even want to think what they would feel like if one was to have a "get off".
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A few more miles and we finally made it to the top. The sprinkling had turned into a fairly light mist and we were delighted to be through with the road.
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Looking back from the sign...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8366.jpg
It was amazing to see how things are put together and the sign was no less wonderous. Notice the small flat rock in the morter between the bigger rocks...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8367.jpg
Now, to get into Real from this direction means to go through the mountain via a hand-dug tunnel. It's only wide enough for one vehicle to pass, so there are guards at each end to direct traffic. On each side there are shops and stands that sell to visitors during the bank hours of the day.
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Entering the tunnel was thrilling to say the least. The exhaust notes from the twins echoed against the walls, and the smooth tile floor provided a comforting path to run along. Not quite halfway through there is a chapel or grotto of some sort that Brian has a picture of.
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Once we were out the other side, we decided to take the narrow high road into town, which passed through this corridor of what we would later find out to be more shops. The roads were wet, but due to the steep angles, not very muddy. Stones are set in the ground to help provide traction.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8376.jpg
The first available place to stop, put us close to the middle of town and a group of teenagers came up to suggest one of the hotels. They also offered the chance to take some horses up the mountain to a ghost town, but we kept declining their persistant offers. We managed to get them to leave by saying we'd follow them to the hotel, and once alone, Brian and I started researching an alternative place for the night. During that time, this little guy came up and started dancing and playing around the bikes all the while trying to figure if he might be able to get some pesos out of us.
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We were just about to go check out a prospect when an obviously non-Mexican couple walked past and stopped after we greeted them in English. Jeff and Lynda were in town on their second night and suggested a hotel around the corner which had a courtyard that we might convince the owner to let us keep the bikes in. We thanked them and headed that way, but not before shooting a picture of the church from our vantage point.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8379.jpg
We did get a room there and the owner agreed to let us bring the bikes into the foyer and courtyard. Our room was upstairs through a very narrow stairwell.
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We unpacked the bags and decided it was getting late, so we had better try getting a signal on the satellite phone. No luck. Time to hike and try to get to higher ground. Around the buildings and up some seriously steep inclined roads to the top of the town.
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At the top were three crosses. Knowing how deeply rooted the mexicans are in Catholic religion, it wouldn't surprise me in the least to find out these are used to simulate the crucifiction...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8384.jpg
It was the perfect end to an exciting day. Sunset, from the top of a mountain in a place that seems 150 years and a million miles from home.
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We informed everyone back home that we were ok and tried to explain how awesome this place was. Words just can't do it.
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On the other side of the fence is a cliff that looks down hundreds of feet to a stream below. Along that stream is a jeep trail that we decided we would take tomorrow to get out of town.
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And just one last one of the end of the day...
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We headed back to the room to shower up and then try to go hunt down some supper. I laid down in bed and noticed that the room looked just a bit different from that of a Holiday Inn Express...
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We hit up a small restaurant around the corner which was heated almost uncomfortably. The outside temperature was dropping into the 50's, but it was still hot inside.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8404.jpg
It was very dimly lit, but definately worth trying to set up the camera with a long enough exposure to show off the room.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8406.jpg
Ritten
05-30-2006, 12:44 AM
That's a statue of St. Francis of Assisi behind Brian. He is well celebrated in the town and is the patron saint of the local cathedral.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8402.jpg
Before our food arrived, the couple who had recommended the hotel to us earlier walked in and we invited them to join us. We talked over a DELICIOUS meal about our travels and theirs. Come to find out, Jeff and Lynda are recently retired from Austrailia, and are touring Central and South America. They were facinated to find out we were only two days from home and so far south already. It was a great time and we all headed back to the hotel for the night. I took a shot of the couple just before we walked through the doors.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8407.jpg
That night we left the window open to allow the cool dry night air to fill the room. Dogs were barking constantly all over town, and donkeys were heehawing from one mountain to the next. It was a zoo for a few hours, but when the mind is at ease enough, it all blends together and you drift off to sleep.
weave
05-30-2006, 06:00 AM
Another excellent adventure aka Ted being served.....thanks
scootertrash
05-30-2006, 08:30 AM
Popcorn2 Popcorn2 Popcorn2 Popcorn2 Popcorn2
Danc.en
Ritten
05-30-2006, 09:03 AM
Awaking the next morning I found out why there were no air conditioners needed in places like this. We could have closed the doors leading to the small balcony and still the room would have gotten just as cold. The hard tile floor didn't help when nature calls, but the view from the second floor room were great.
Left...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8408.jpg
And right...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8409.jpg
It was still early, so we decided some breakfast would be a good idea. We got dressed and went a hunting. Here's a look into the courtyard of town square.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8410.jpg
Notice the design and handiwork used to keep the stones in place. The streets were the same way, but with just a more "traveled" look to them.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8411.jpg
We only found one place open for breakfast and even though it was almost 9 in the morning, we learned that Mexicans don't really start their day till about then. I had an omelet in a way I never imagined, and it was too good to get a picture of before it was totally gone.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8413.jpg
I took some artsy pictures of the doors and the windows since I could only imagine how old the wood was.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8415.jpg
The restaurant was part of the hotel that the teenagers were trying to persuade us to stay at, and although it was nice to have the safety of the courtyard for the bikes, this was a gorgeous place. The tiny middle courtyard of this hotel was open as well...
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We figured we'd hike around town a bit and see some of it in the beautiful morning. The night before, Lynda told us a bit about the church in town and some of the significance of it. The church itself is pretty old, but the doors are even older.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8422.jpg
Inside the fragrance of old wood and dry air fills your senses and the floor gives deep heavy creeks under your footsteps. The wooden slats have holes so that they can be pulled up and we're still not quite sure what's beneath them. Everything was extremely ornate and big.
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It's almost 70' from the floor to the top of the rotunda.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8426.jpg
Lynda told us about a room off to the side of the alter that was used to pray to St. Francis. People would draw and write down their prayers, and put them on the walls. Some of which were over 100 years old!!
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8428.jpg
We found one from 1926...
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The original statue of St. Francis that is the center of the church's celebrations...
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Since we were out and about, we figured we would try walking around some more and see what we could find around town. We saw this old lady resting along the wall and I thought it would make a cool picture. The trail leading off in the background went up and around the mountain and it was decided that we would come back with the bikes to go explore it.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8434.jpg
We walked along side the wall, and then looking through it were amazed to see the valley below us. The white is clouds a few thousand feet below.
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The air was thin, but I didn't find I had as much trouble hiking the inclines as I thought I would. We turned back around toward the hotel to check out and get the bikes. Along the way we found a farmer or merchant using the oilfield mentality to load up some sacks. "Nevermind the mule, just load the wagon"
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Not long after, we saw Jeff walking up the way and we stopped to talk. He mentioned that Lynda had caught a bug and wasn't feeling well, so they were going to stay in town one more night. He asked where we were headed, and when Brian mentioned San Miguel Allende, Jeff told us that they had already paid for a room there, so if we wanted it, it was ours! SCHWEEEET......we accepted and agreed that we would buy them a beer the next time we met in our travels. Jeff came up to our room and did his best to write a Spanish letter to the hotel asking them to give us their room.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8439.jpg
We loaded up the gear and agreed to let Jeff take a picture of the two of us for their own website.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8440.jpg
So, on to the trail and up the mountain we went. Most of the track was packed pretty good, but a few washouts and watercrossings made for a great chance to get some mud on the tires. The vistas were second to none though...
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The outsides of the trail wasn't just a hard angle down, in places it really was a shear cliff face. Slow and surefooted was the name of the game there, but the 'Strom and the GS handled even the rocky sections with grace.
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After a few miles we noticed we were being followed...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8446.jpg
And the trail just kept on wrapping.....mountain after mountain.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8447.jpg
Ritten
05-30-2006, 09:08 AM
We came to a fork in the trail after a while and took what seemed like the direction that would take us to the next town, but eventually the trail became overgrown and obviously not used much, so we decided to just turn around, head back to Catorce, and take the jeep trail out of the valley to leave.
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We parked to try and get an early lunch, but most places were still closed...
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Going back through town, meant trying to maneuver up and down the extreme grades that some of the roads were built on. The stones were mortered in place, so it wasn't a lack of traction but rather just the angles that you had to contend with. The picture doesn't do it justice, but after going down what we figured to be a 35 degree hill, I stopped at the bottom to get pictures of Brian making it down. I could only do it by shutting off the engine, the bike in gear, and using the clutch and front break to crawl my way down.
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We had both made it with no problems and Brian pointed down the next hill to get to the jeep trail on the downhill side. I followed behind as we got into some loose rocks. The angle was steep again, but this time my front tire stopped the bike when it hit a pile of softball size rocks while trying to make a corner, I went to put my foot down and realized that there was nothing there....just a hole on the right side. The bike started going over and all I could here was Tom Cruise's voice in my head from Top Gun...."eject, eject, eject!!"
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8455.jpg
Anyone notice a vague similarity here???
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/CHRISTIANSPigpicwebsight.jpg
The crashbars did their job though and the Jesses only had a few scratches. However, picking up the bike, fully loaded, on an angle, in rocks, at 9100' up, in full gear deemed to be a bit more than I could manage. I was straining with all my might until a local came by and helped give that extra little push to get the bike right. I was panting so hard that I really could NOT catch my breath. Now was a matter of getting back on. I couldn't mount from the right side, cause the bike was uphill, and I couldn't mount from the left side cause the hole was still on the right for me to fall in. I managed to get the kickstand down and the bike somewhat stable. Looking around for the biggest rock I could find I picked one up that was about a foot cubed and set it on the right side. I jumped on the bike, balancing off the rock, wrung out first gear and let out the clutch. Rocks went flying and I made the corner with Brian and about half a dozen Mexicans laughing at me from on top of the hill. I just smiled and said, "So where to now?"
While I was wrestling with the pig, Brian managed to ask one of the locals if the jeep trail was anything like this incline and the reply was big eyes, large nods, and steep motions with his hands. Sooo.....we were taking the tunnel back out.
At the end of the tunnel we pulled into a small parking area to catch our breath and so I could more closely inspect the bike. No problems.
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At one point Brian erupted with laughter and we caught our pictures of this trip's "205" sighting. It's an ADVrider thing...
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Then it was back down the long stone road and heading towards the highway.
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chappy
05-30-2006, 09:35 AM
And it's free! I usually gave to buy a magazine or go to the library to read stuff this good.
Ritten
05-30-2006, 09:38 AM
We were headed south to San Miguel and the terrain was becoming drier and drier. The prickly pair cactus was getting HUGE and at times were actual trees! We pulled off a few times to help water the landscape and I made the mistake of softly knocking some kind of cactus with my boot. The tines went straight into rubber and leather like nothing and must have been barbed, cause I had to get out my pliers to take it out. I pulled one piece off with my hand and although I was careful not to touch the tines, all it took was just a slight touch.Head Bang Head Bang I finally yanked the sticker out of my skin and what only took a breath of a touch to lodge, came out drawing blood. Talk about a pissed off plant!! So for the rest of the trip I decided that I would not kick any more cactus'.
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Every now and again we would pull off the road onto a simblance of a trail just to get a little dirt beneath us. The bikes just seemed at home there in the desert.
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We arrived in San Miguel after a short day of riding and spent almost an hour in traffic and fighting one-ways. Fianlly we found Jeff's hotel and it was obvious we weren't staying there. The front door was about 3 feet from the road with a big lip and not really anywhere we could see to put the bikes, if we could even get them in there. So we backtracked to another place we found during the hour before that had covered/guarded parking. Taking a shower was the fastest way to cool off and we put on some jeans and t-shirts to go explore the town.
The city was beautiful and the colors are spectacular. The church had a wedding going on, along with a Mariachi concert going on outside.
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The streets were full of people and I tried my best to capture the spirit of the evening in pictures, but using a flash is so harsh. Even though some come out blurry, you can start to gather the festive feeling that one feels when walking through the streets.
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We stopped into a local place to get some dinner and watched the light dim on the town square.
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We even got to see the newly wed couple taking off after the wedding.
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The church gained an eerie feel, almost gothic, after the sunset.
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After a great meal, we walked around a bit more and heard a band playing in one of the bars. Following our ears led us up to the roof of one place, so we sat, ordered a few beers, and listened to this band completely destroy whatever song they were trying to sing.
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The view of the square is nice from on top though.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8478.jpg
After a few weak drinks, and a couple of beers, we headed back to the hotel to get some much desired sleep. By this point, Brian had learned the value of sleeping with earplugs and I did my best to wake whoever was sleeping in the room next to us, with some well practiced snoring.Cool12
Save-the-Manatee
05-30-2006, 12:24 PM
Very Imressive..................
Flying Low
05-30-2006, 02:10 PM
i have been anxiously waiting this report. Ted, you haven't let us down yet. i can't wait so read/see the rest.
btw, thanks for the picture of the donkey. it has a glaring resemblance to my boss. with your permission and a little help from photoshop, the picture will make the rounds at my office.
but anyway, back to the important stuff. please go on with your report. we are anxiously waiting.
Ritten
05-30-2006, 02:33 PM
Well, looking back on my notes I see that I got my cities mixed up, and we spent night #3 in San Louis Potosi. We headed to San Miguel the following day. I'm sure it doesn't matter to most of you guys, but I just wanted to get my facts straight...hehe
The ride to San Miguel Allende FROM San Louis Potosi isn't very far, and we decided to take some offroad loops along the way. We caught some breakfast in the downstairs restaurant of the hotel which really wasn't anything special, and packed the bikes. That morning I took a bit more active interest in following our route with my GPS and maps, and noticed that we passed up the turn-off that we agreed to take. Just being along for the ride, I didn't mind playing "follow the leader" and we were soon beating some other trails.
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Now, when it comes to offroad riding, Brian is a bit braver, and more skillfull than myself and he usually ends up having to wait at forks or crossroads for me to catch up. The trail was pretty smooth and his speed almost got the best of him at one point when he hit a hidden dip pretty hard and completely bottomed out the V-strom on the far side. I was working my way up the hill and came upon him inspecting the sump and guards for any leakage and as soon as I went through the dip, I knew what happened.
We carried on the trail to the point that it was no longer marked on the maps or the GPS. It winded through a few settlements and next to properties which were amazing to see so far from everything. We turned around quite a bit trying to find a trail that led back towards the highway, and eventually took a two track that went in the general direction. The two track started working through a few fields, and became smaller and less traveled. At a few points, it crossed streams that I don't know if we would have been able to follow if it weren't the dry season. I almost lost the big pig in a mud hole that ended up being about a foot deep, but with enough throttle, she slid and whipped on through it. Not too much later, we were back on a good dirt road and it appeared the highway wasn't too much further.
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We stopped to catch our wits after the last few hours of concentrating offroad and it was REALLY nice to have a cool drink so close with our camelbacks.
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Going through the small settlements, the children would watch in awe as the two huge behemoths of motorcycles passed them in a slow cloud of dust. Wide eyed, and running to see, they would stop whatever they were doing, and when given a friendly wave, they would smile from ear to ear......franticly waving back. Even the older people walking from place to place would eye us down as we crept by, but with just a wave, they instantly doned a toothless grin, or a squinted smile, and waved back. At one point we rounded a bend in the trail, only to have to slow down for a sheep herder to walk his herd across the street.
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The road was getting smoother and smoother and we took breaks about every hour.
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Finally, back on the paved highway, we stopped not long down the road to relax and get some lunch. Around 1 in the afternoon all of the lunch places were just opening.
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It could have been crap and it would have tasted good, but luckily, everything was amazingly delicious!!
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And after a hearty lunch buffet, we decided to relax while researching a decent hotel for the night...
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Thanks for the report! I've been going over and over it.........I just can't get enough!
Ritten
05-30-2006, 03:13 PM
The city was only about 30 miles away, so we stopped to fill up the bikes and figured it would be nice to get an early arrival time. Getting gas had become somewhat humorus now that I noticed a pattern. I would pull up to a pump, and before the engine was stopped, the attendant would be there waiting with the nozzle in his hand. He (or she) would patiently wait for me to take off my helmet and gloves, I'd have to move them out the way to put the bike on the center stand, I'd then tell them that I needed premium, and we both would fill up the bike. 4 eyes on the filler neck like two doctors operating on a machine!! Also the fact that Mexicans typically aren't the tallest nationality and the filler on the GS when it's on the center stand is almost 5' tall!! It's a funny sight to see.
We finally made it into town and our first choice for a hotel looked very promising, but trying to ask the girl at the desk if we could pull the bikes into the courtyard was frustraiting. She said no, mentioned something about the manager being out, and waiting 15min. We waited for an hour. Finally, we just decided we would leave the bikes on the street if we had to and went ahead and got the room. Between the heat, the aggrivation of trying to get the bikes in, and traffic earlier, I was stressed to no end and just crashed on one of the beds for a nap. About a half hour later I woke up much better and decided to try again. Armed with sincere determination and a big smile, I asked for the manager and luckily SHE was there. Ohhh yea, that's right....a bit of American charm, a few laughs, and motorcycle noises and she was putty in my hands!! For the record, the bikes stayed inside again that night!!
So....onward to check out the town...
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We found the town square and found it to be open enough to use the Sat. phone. I snapped a few pictures around the square while Brian informed his wife that he was fine.
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The architechture is amazingly beautiful and every building seemed to be picture worthy...
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The church was being renovated on the outside and you can see the nets put up to keep pigeons off...
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It seemed like we were just in time to make a wedding in every church we came across...
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One of the street vendors was selling homemade ice cream and it had to have been a God-send. I can honestly say that was the single best ice cream I've ever had!!! We took it into an outdoor cafe to sit down and enjoy it. Not long after, a Mariachi band came to play for a table of hotties....err.....I mean ladies, next to us.
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She was sure enjoying that lollypop...
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I'm still not sure what these guys were up to.
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Contrary to what this picture looks like, I SWEAR I was getting a picture of the doors on the side of the church when she walked into the frame!!! Honestly!!
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We walked a bit more and explored alot of the downtown area and city square. My assumptions of the Mexican people were still being reinforced with each smile I gave. A nod of the head, and a soft "Hola" was enough to put a smile on anyone's face. Finally, hunger started taking over again, and we found a cafe overlooking the square to grab a bite and people watch.
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As the sun went down we saw some strange sights pass by...
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After filling up with some more great, fresh food, we walked around the square to find there was a concert going on by the church. We listened for a bit.
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We figured we would head back to the hotel and change before going out for a drink and I grabbed a picture of the two pigs in the courtyard waiting for the rest of the ride.
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The Lonely Planet guidebook, which we were using for the trip, recommended a local bar that really looked nice when we passed by. We grabbed a table and listened to a band whale out some Stevie Ray Vaughn that impressed me to no end. They were GOOD!!!
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It suprised the hell out of us to find that our waiter spoke pretty good english and he stated that he learned while working in Cancun, Mx. It was a great end to a great day, and after 4 or 5 Jack&cokes, and about as many beers, we hiked back to the room for a good night's sleep.
scootertrash
05-30-2006, 04:47 PM
Danc.en Popcorn2 Danc.en Popcorn2 Danc.en Popcorn2 Danc.en Popcorn2 Popcorn2 Popcorn2 Popcorn2 Popcorn2
Ritten
05-30-2006, 05:03 PM
Well, I just received the pictures from Brian that he took and they are AMAZING. His camera is worlds better than the A40 that I brought and the pictures show it. I see he's now a member here, so perhaps he'll post up some of his favorites, but I'm just going to throw up a few that I've already written about just to show that I really did go on this trip! :D
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Ritten
05-30-2006, 05:45 PM
Laying in bed sleeping like a baby after a few drinks the night before, the last thing anyone expects to be woken up to is fireworks. However, that would be my alarm clock. Sometime around 5am, the local church decided to celebrate the dedication of that day to it's patron saint and make sure I didn't get anymore shut-eye in the process. Brian was laying in his bed out like a light with the peacefullness of earplugs helping him snooze away. With enough light coming through the window before too long, we were up and dressed and ready to start another leg of the trip. We aimed the bikes for Guanajuato and headed west.
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We occasionally got off the pavement for pictures and to feel the dirt and rocks under us.
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One thing that was told to us by others who had ridden below the border was that some of the best food can be found right on the side of the highway. This little place was certain to live up to that reputation. It appeared to be run by a lady and her two daughters. There were no menus, no numbered meals, and certainly no wine list. The young girl came up to us and rattled off something and the only familier word we heard was "tacos". "Tres tacos por favor", we replied.
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Words just can't do this food justice. It's about 60 miles east of Guanajuato and well worth the trip just to go eat!!
We start our way into the city and understand before hand that there are tunnels and roads beneath the city. We dive right into some trying to get to the center and as soon as you go underground, the GPS is gone. We rode in and out of the city 3 or 4 times trying to make sense of it all, to no avail. Finally we got the idea of how to get to the surface and ended up getting caught in traffic inside one of the tunnels. The small guy in back of the car ahead of us kept us amused for a short while...
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Finally we just pulled over and I went to ask directions. I found the hostest of a restaurant to be extremely helpful and she pointed out where we needed to go. And as luck would have it, the hotel had parking. It was by far the most expensive place we stayed at by almost double.....900 pesos a night, but it was in the perfect location, so we figured, "What the heck".
With the bikes secured in the parking yard, and our stuff stashed away in the room, we started our evening ritual of checking out the town.
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There was even a huge market with everything being sold inside from sides of beef, to vegetables, to trinkets and clothes.
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The streets were spotless and once again the colors of the buildings were vibrant and beautiful.
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After walking around for a few hours, we started to notice that people had started to gather at one end of the square in front of our hotel. We crossed the street and took a seat among the growing croud on the church steps.
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This fella started playing his harmonica to the crowd all the while performing acrobatics. Pretty impressive stuff.
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After a while, I started to hear drumbeats off in the distance. With each passing minute they grew stronger and louder. Before long, it was obvious that bands were coming and we started to see these kids dressed up in costumes.
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Each band had it's own beat and it's own tune to play.
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After what seemed to be about 20 different groups, we saw the indians dressed up in feathers and costumes twirling and jumping all over the street.
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Once they passed, down the street one could see this figure of light making it's way towards us.
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It was a statue of Mary, surrounded in lights and flowers. It was lit with an extention cord and when they ran out of cord, the figure would be unplugged and another cord ran in front of it down the street. They would plug it back in and keep right on trucking. Ohhh, and by the way.......it was carried on the shoulders of men.
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The crowd was thick by the end of it.
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With the parade over, we headed up to the room cranked up the fan and crashed.
Ritten
05-30-2006, 08:24 PM
When we were in Real de Catorce we had discussed with Jeff and Lynda where they would be staying later on in the week and it worked out to where we were all in Guanajuato at the same time. Upon looking at the time we were making, looking to see what was left that we had planned to visit in the country, and needing a day of rest, we decided to book ourselves into the hotel for one more night and spend a day looking around the city.
We took a cable car up the mountain to the higher part of the city and got to look out on how it was built nestled down in a small valley. We passed by the hotel that our Austrailian friends were staying at, but the doors were all locked. The guide informed us of an alley that was worth visiting. The ally of the kiss is where a two buildings were built so close together that two people could actually kiss if they were standing on the balconys. The legend goes on to tell about forbidden love, secret romances, and some other stuff that you're probably better off watching a Lifetime movie about.
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Once we walked back down to the center of the city, we decided to jump on a bus, and take a ride out to the Mummy Museum. A few years back, the people needed to start making room in the graveyard for new bodies so they exumed some of the old ones for cremation. What they found was that due to the soil composition, and the extremely dry air, some of the bodies were mummified!!! Today there are over 100 bodies on display just outside of town including the smallest mummy in the world.
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On the way back into town via bus I was able to get some pictures of the tunnels and the maze of roads that I couldn't get from the bike.
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The bus stop for the center of town was actually inside one of the mile long tunnels and we climbed some stairs to get to town square above us. We still had to locate a bank to pay for our visas and trying one earlier that morning was unsuccessful. So, walking around the square, discussing how to go about getting some lunch for the day, we hear behind us, "Man, it's a small town!!" We turn to see Jeff and Lynda out running errunds themselves. We catch up on the previous days adventures and sights and agree to all meet up at the fountain in the center of town to eat dinner together later on that evening. Brian and I grabbed a table right there in the square at an outdoor cafe for some lunch.
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Our lack of Spanish sometimes provided interesting results in ordering food, and the club sandwich I ordered came with fries. Well, in asking if it did, the waiter thought I wanted extra. The extra fries came served over lettuce, tomatoes, and all the fixins for a good salad. It wasn't for the sandwich as that plate already came with the same stuff!! So, I squirted a bit of ketchup for color and took the picture.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8587.jpg
Brian had caught a bug earlier that morning so while he went up to the room to take something, I sought out an internet cafe to unload my email inbox and shoot off the obligatory emails. It was a lazy evening and a great time to just stop and take it all in. I went up to our new room which we had to move into when we booked the second night and checked on the bikes yet again. The parking area was right outside our window.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8589.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8590.jpg
Ritten
05-30-2006, 09:01 PM
I had to give this description it's own thread, because for me, it was one of the highlights of the trip. There's a point in each trip you make like this that you realize how small the world really can be, that there is so much to see out there, and that just by realizing it, you are in a completely different class from most people who live in their own bubble each and every day.
We met up with the couple around 7 and although we donned our best t-shirt and jeans I still felt under-dressed. Jeff comes across as a very well educated man, wise and well cultured. Just speaking with him briefly one can tell he's traveled and seen alot more than most. Lynda is almost the perfect female counterpart to him. She is very well spoken, her eyes twinkle when she speaks of her travels, and her voice is firm and soft.
We sat down at an outdoor restaurant for drinks before going to dinner and we sipped on margaritas while talking about past bike trips and the current dealings in Mexico. The people around us, all walking around in their daily lives and never knowing that these four travelers from two different ends of the world are sitting here. I brought up my future plans to ride up to Alaska and Jeff stated that he worked up there for a few years as a ranger. We spoke of bears, wildlife, hiking, camping, and oilfield. Before we realized, we were three drinks down, a few hours in conversation, and tummys ready for dinner. Jeff recommended a really good place that the locals all hit right around the corner, so we made our way there. The restaurant was on the street known for prostitution so it was no suprise that it was called Trick 7. We grabbed a table and went ahead and ordered.
In that small hole in the wall, in the middle of Mexico, my mind was opened to an entire new world as Jeff and Lynda shared some of their life with us. Originally from Canada, Lynda has been all over the world herself. She lived aboard a sailboat off the coast of Australia for three years and spent alot of time traveling the world. She told us stories about going into civilizations and cultures, making friends of people who wanted to know if we really did land on the moon!! Her soft nature, and adventurous spirit was overwhelming when she talked and her love of people was evident.
Jeff, has been there, done that. He mentioned that a good ride might be to ride along side the yangzee river up onto the higher plains there. He did it by bicycle. He's well familiar with the great white north having lived and worked in Alaska for a few years, and now, living in Australia, where he met Lynda, they travel together. They described their home in the outback as facing the beach on one side, and the mountains on the other. One could sit in the same spot and watch the sunrise, then turn around and watch it set......from their living room. Both are newly retired and are spending 6 months traveling central and south America, jumping from town to town. They do have family down there, and are hoping to turn it into a family trip.
We sat at that wooden table for hours, until we could hold our eyes open no longer. Brian and I both had to pick our jaws off the floor numerous times and now have an open invite to visit them in Australia sometime in the future. I also extended the same to both of them, as they now have a place to stay and a south louisiana guide at their disposal. The four of us strolled back to the hotels as a group and by the time our good-bys were due, we gave them with hugs. Occasionally, there are times when the huge world we live in becomes small and for a few moments, you're part of it all. To Jeff and Lynda, thank you again for sharing parts of your lives and experiences with us.
Ritten
05-30-2006, 11:12 PM
The next morning we went down early to let the guys in the garage know we were about to take the bikes out. We loaded them up and headed out of town alot easier than we went in. We decided to go east instead of west and try to stay in the mountains and higher elevations for the most part. Xilitlas was the goal for the night, but there were a few things to see along the way.
The Mexicans are a simple people and being in the country is like stepping back a few hundred years. Horses and plows are still a common sight during the plowing season.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8594.jpg
We took a loop through Jalpan and Bernal to see the great monolith that rises up from the earth there. The cities around it were beautiful but we wanted to get up close and personal.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8595.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8596.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8597.jpg
We took a stone road out of town that ended up pretty steep and about halfway up, Brian noticed that it turned into steps. He yelled at me to turn around, and as I stopped my climb, grabbed the brakes, I noticed the bike start to slide backwards. All I could do was keep it balanced while the front tire slid with no traction until I got sideways enough to stop. I cut the wheel, aimed it downhill and prayed that I could control the decent somewhat. Well, bouncing through some rocks and coming to rest on a relatively level ground I breathed a bit easier. Brian however was still at the top of the hill trying to figure out how to turn around.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8598.jpg
The picture is VERY deceaving as I had the camera pointed up to get the picture. Just as I snapped the picture, I heard a loud CRRRAASH behind me. I didn't even put the camera down, just turned around and snapped another one.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8599.jpg
"DAMN IT TED", I thought to myself. I ended up putting the bike in neutral when I got off and the slight incline caused it to roll forward off the side stand. Nothing broken but a left turn signal. Ohhh well, I wanted TT LED signals anyway.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8600.jpg
We finally found the right path and headed up as close as we could and took a break there.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8601.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8602.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8603.jpg
Riding out of town was nice as the wind always helped cool you off from the desert heat.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8605.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8606.jpg
The road becomes home after a while...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8608.jpg
Next stop was the Ranas ruins. They're still not quite sure what they were used for, but believed the indians used them for games and sport.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8610.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8623.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8619.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8618.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8616.jpg
The hike up to the temples was rough as neither of us are used to the altitude, but we left our jackets back at the bikes, put on the camelbaks and toughed it out. Never leave the possibility of regrets.
Riding into Xilitla that afternoon were roads laid by God himself just for motorcycles. At least starting out anyway. We winded through, up, down, around, and along the canyons and mountains for 250-300 miles of some great twisties.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8624.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8626.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8628.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8629.jpg
Ritten
05-30-2006, 11:34 PM
In the twisties I jumped out in front and took a bit more aggressive lines than Brian would but he got some better pictures of the mountains during his sight seeing. By the end of the day he had gotten much smoother in the corners and was setting up late apex's and carrying a bit more speed as he got more and more comfortable. At one point the road turned very crappy and it was more like black gravel than anything. Just a tad too hot into one corner and the 'Strom went sideways while Brian desperately fought to keep it upright. I have to say that I don't think I would have been able to save that slide, but he came out of it on two wheels. Major kudos dude!!
We spent the last 50 miles in a high gear, just floating through the mountains. I followed and let his cautiousness be my guide. I put my feet on the H&B's, sat back and cruised our way down.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8631.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8632.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8633.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8634.jpg
We were dropping elevation pretty quick and the vegetation was getting bigger and more lush with each mile. We pulled into the town of Xilitla and it felt like being thrown into a Columbian movie. The place we were thinking of staying was closed already for the evening. Built by a very eccentric and wealthy man, it is rooms and staircases that go up to nothing. No walls, no handrails. It's described as a childs dream, and a parent's nightmare.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8635.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8636.jpg
There was only one other hotel in town, so we figured we ought to check it out or we'd have some night ridding to do. It was perfect with parking behind locked gates. 270 pesos and we were set up.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8637.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8638.jpg
We went into town to pick up some cervezas and something to munch on. The town square was FULL of kids and even at 10pm it's alive with people. We wandered around a bit, but all the twisties that day had us both beat. Back to the hotel, hot showers, and then off to sleep.
Ritten
05-30-2006, 11:59 PM
Other than Cuidad Victoria, Xilitla was the last town we planned to see, and Victoria would be on the way home. So we started the three day countdown to home. The morning was beautiful and the window from the hall outside our room showed how we were overlooking the mountains.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8640.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8639.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8641.jpg
The elevation had dropped out of town down to about 200' and the humidity and heat reflected it. We rode hard though, and I took out the camera and got some pictures while riding through it all...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8642.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8645.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8646.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8648.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8652.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8653.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8654.jpg
It seemed like every town we went through had someone walking to or from the next.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8655.jpg
Even saw the occasional original U-haul...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8656.jpg
Rolling across this bridge we saw the guy by the canoe jump into the water and I stopped for a picture. It appeared he and the trucks on the banks were harvesting some kind of vegetation from the river.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8657.jpg
Sometime during our jaunt through the tropics, we crossed the Tropic of Cancer and missed it. We both saw the yellow ball with the line through it, but didn't put two and two together as there was no sign.
After a few hundred miles we left the lush and greeness of the lower elevation and got back into the desert again on our way to Cuidad Victoria. It was HELLA HOT and bone dry!! During lunch I looked out the window to notice the bike looked like a puppy that desperately wanted in out of the heat.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8658.jpg
This was my first time eating goat meat, but it was damn good.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8661.jpg
Outside I think we discovered the only Mexican Texaco station!!
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8663.jpg
The rest of the way into Victoria was relaxing and peaceful as the arrow on the GPS pointed due north...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8667.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8668.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8669.jpg
Cuidad Victoria felt pretty close to a modern American city as we had been in yet. The cars were newer, there was commercialization, and hell, they even had a KFC!! We checked in at a place with guarded parking and ended up eating in the downstairs restaurant after walking a mile through shoe store boulivard.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8670.jpg
This was our one hotel in Mexico with an A/C and we were glad to have it!! We had that unit working overtime!!
Ritten
05-31-2006, 12:16 AM
It was on now......a little over 200 miles to the border and we used every cc of those big twins to get there. The open four lane roads are wide and not marked and the 100kph limits are a joke. We were running a steady 100 alright.....but not kilos.
Brunch proved to be somewhat exciting as the restaurant was a thatch roof. We could hear some russling above us and figured it was just some birds, but when I went back to the bike I saw what it was.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8672.jpg
There were 3 lizards playing and obviously they lived in a hole in the straw. A last delicious meal of huevos and maize totillas...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8676.jpg
This little guy was outside on the curb watching over the bikes.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8674.jpg
By early afternoon we were at the border in Metamoros and got our bike permits canceled.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8677.jpg
We said good by to Mexico for now and headed across the river...
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8678.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8679.jpg
On the US side when they asked how long we were there and we said better than a week, they had us pull over to check out the bikes and run our passports. Neither of us minded in the least and the shade was a nice rest.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8680.jpg
The ride through south Texas seemed to last forever, and we finally made it into Houston later on that evening. Filling up in the failing light I caught the picture that showed the look on my face after experiencing it all. We had done it and got to live so much more than just a bike ride.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8682.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexico/IMG_8683.jpg
The feel of Real de Catorce, fighting cactus', slaying the twisties of the Mexican mountains, and sharing stories of our adventures with other travelers... You just don't get to do all of that when you're a tourist. Mexico isn't experienced while in a comfort zone. It's being outside of that zone that makes it an adventure.
shortie
05-31-2006, 12:49 AM
incredible... thank you for sharing with us!!!! :)
Ritten
05-31-2006, 01:48 AM
i have been anxiously waiting this report. Ted, you haven't let us down yet. i can't wait so read/see the rest.
btw, thanks for the picture of the donkey. it has a glaring resemblance to my boss. with your permission and a little help from photoshop, the picture will make the rounds at my office.
but anyway, back to the important stuff. please go on with your report. we are anxiously waiting.
Go ahead and use it all you want. In fact, I've got a few more that I'll send you as well.
weave
05-31-2006, 06:11 AM
Fine report Ted, It got my wanderlust juices flowing!
scootertrash
05-31-2006, 08:42 AM
Ted, and your companion... bravo. I really enjoyed it. All I can say now is that my lust for a V-Strom 1000 is stronger than it used to be, and let me know the next big trip you go on..... I want to tag along! Thanks for the report, excellent!Cool12
Juice
05-31-2006, 08:50 AM
Awesome Job Ted...........Do you have a route mapped that you can post up? Show where exactly you guys went?
Rocky
05-31-2006, 09:24 AM
Very creative writing and brilliant photography.......Awesome report. B.&b
BOILERMAN
05-31-2006, 09:31 AM
once again im speechless and jealous.......
Save-the-Manatee
05-31-2006, 09:32 AM
One day. I'm going to travel as you do. This report was both inspirational and harding. Mexico is truly a beautiful place.......
nickatnite
05-31-2006, 09:38 AM
Dood....
It rocked!!!
You know, next time we gotta hook up and go down there and see CoCo...
chappy
05-31-2006, 10:34 AM
What an adventure! Great job!
Flying Low
05-31-2006, 10:48 AM
Ted, y'all out did yourselves. this report is fantastic, and i'm sure its only a shade of what y'all experienced. i'm sure your emotions, memories, and experiences are far more profound than anyone of us will know. thank you very much for sharing your trip with us. you have stirred an inspiration in many of us to do as you have done.
scooterhose
05-31-2006, 11:28 AM
Popcorn2 EPIC!
qwer What else can I say?
Ritten
05-31-2006, 02:09 PM
How many miles did you log?
We were JUST shy of 3000 miles. My trip odometer read 2980 when I pulled back into my driveway. We had originally thought it would be around 3500, but we didn't ride the bikes around in the towns like one might in the US. You can just walk everywhere!!
Juice, I'm going to try my best to put the route into Mapsource and recreate it cause my GPS V didn't have enough memory to save it. I'll also be getting in touch with Brian to see if he already downloaded it from his 276. I'll be sure to post it up as soon as I get it.Cool12
Thanks again for all kind words guys. Bayou Boy is the one who put the trip together and researched all of the places we went. I was just there for the ride. Without his desire to see it all, I don't know if I would have been able to venture so far into the unknown (for me anyway), and I would have surly missed most of the experience of this trip. Thanks12 dude!
Also, how much is 900 pesos in US money? Did you spend more, less or equal to your expected budget?
Ritten
05-31-2006, 02:33 PM
Also, how much is 900 pesos in US money? Did you spend more, less or equal to your expected budget?
The exchange rate we got when we went into the country was at 10.75 pesos to 1 US dollar, but now it's up to almost 11 to 1. 900 pesos was equal to about $84 US. I budgeted ALOT more than needed for this trip in case we ran into trouble, but as far as expenditures, it was close to $600 spent on everything during the trip. Food will run you about 50-60% of what you'd spend here. Gas is only marginally cheaper, and a decent hotel should run between $30-$50 US a night. It's not an expensive trip to take at all, but it's a good idea to be prepared. I carried Mexican bike insurance (available over the net) since your American insurance won't cover you outside the country, and I also am a member of a medical evacuation plan in case something were to REALLY go wrong. If you start adding up all of that, then it equals the cost of a long trip here in the states. Not to mention all of the gadgets and gear you justify buying before hand...:)
Not to mention all of the gadgets and gear you justify buying before hand...:)
Which seems to be a NEVER ending list!asdf
benpeabody
05-31-2006, 04:08 PM
Wow Great trip report! Great pictures. Thanks Going to San Miguel in June will be taking my KLR250 can't wait.
Bayou Boy
06-02-2006, 02:39 PM
I'm the Brian that took this trip with Ted. I ended up spending around $700 US for the whole trip. $70 a day average isn't too bad.
If you look at that picture of me sideways on that hill, it really doesn't do it justice. Notice that I'm holding the bike level and compare the air difference under my left and right panniers. :eek:
We had an amazing time on this trip. I still get butterflies every time I look at the pictures and as I write my Ride Report for Advrider.com
weave
06-03-2006, 06:46 PM
What kind of tires were you running, how did they hold up and perform on the rocks.
Also Ted noticed you had a GPS V on your bike were you using the standard base map? Did it do routing in MX. I had my V in Baja a couple of years ago
and it would show my location fine, just would not navigate or route, performs great here.
Ritten
06-03-2006, 07:56 PM
I ran the Tourances and they held up amazingly. On rocks, stones, gravel, and pavement they were well planted (as long as they were facing the ground) and stuck like glue on the twisty pavement sections in the mountains. At one point I was getting off the bike throwing it from side to side and thanking God I had decided to go with the Tourances over the TKC's. 250 miles of mountain corners vs the hundred miles or so we did offroad made the choice alot wiser.
Brian may chime in with the phenomenon we observed on his front tire. He was running Distanzias and we noticed that the leading tread point was cracking and peeling. Neither of us had ever seen or heard of it before, but other than that, I don't think he had any complaints from those tires. I'll let him speak for himself though.
The GPS V was the reliable unit that it's always been, but we were both using maps that I purchased of Mexico a few months ago. http://www.bicimapas.com.mx/Mapas_GPS_Garmin.htm
The maps are extremely detailed, but don't have autorouting capability. I didn't mind though, cause with only 19mb of memory on the GPS V I could only load the four blocks that our trip took us in, and didn't even have enough room left over to save routes.
Bayou Boy
06-03-2006, 09:01 PM
I don't know what I was seeing with the Distanzias. This is my third set. After running normal speeds home they look fine in my garage. I think running really fast in the hot weather may have had something to do with it. If I didn't want to try the TKCs next I would still buy another set. I think they work best in the dirt of all the 90/10 tires. They seem to have more space in between the tread blocks.
I used my 276c on this trip I had all of Louisiana, Texas, and Mexico in there and only used about 1/5 of my 512mb card.
weave
06-04-2006, 11:40 AM
Brian, I did 2 sets of Distanzas on my KLR before I switched to gripsters...
3 sets later I'm still happy with em. Much better in the gravel just as sticky on the tarmac, I found the distanzas cupped much faster.I have been happy with the tourances on the GS but am trying anakees now as well as on the weestrom, heading to Suches on wed so we will see how they do.
heading to Suches on wed so we will see how they do.
Looking foward to the pix and report Weaver
Shakey75
06-04-2006, 02:27 PM
Wow!! That was amazing! Thanks for sharing Ted and Brian!
Ritten
06-08-2006, 12:07 PM
I know this is a bit big, but it shows the route that we took on the trip. The northern most track was going, and the southern track through Brownsville was coming home.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/Thetedeo/Mexicoroute.jpg
Man, you went WAY down there
Britton
06-09-2006, 05:20 PM
I did a very similar ride down there in 1999 and it was outstanding. I started in Matamoros and went down to Tampico, across to San Miguel, San Loius Potosi and then up to Real De Catorce (way cool there). From there we went back to Matamoros.
I am considering doing this trip again at the end of Sept so if any one is interested, let me know.
Kudos to both of you for having the true ADVrider spirit! Also great pictures and documentation!
Ritten
06-09-2006, 05:46 PM
I did a very similar ride down there in 1999 and it was outstanding. I started in Matamoros and went down to Tampico, across to San Miguel, San Loius Potosi and then up to Real De Catorce (way cool there). From there we went back to Matamoros.
I am considering doing this trip again at the end of Sept so if any one is interested, let me know.
Kudos to both of you for having the true ADVrider spirit! Also great pictures and documentation!
Thanks man!! First post and it's to compliment our ride......I'm honored.Cool12 Welcome to the site. There's some great riders, and colorful characters around here.
Britton
06-09-2006, 06:00 PM
Thanks man!! First post and it's to compliment our ride......I'm honored.Cool12 Welcome to the site. There's some great riders, and colorful characters around here.
I look forward to interacting with everyone and Thanks12 for welcoming me!
Ritten
06-14-2006, 04:20 PM
Hey Ted
Just curious as to why you guys did not check out the gulf? Looks like you were almost within reach?
Our second night in Guanauato we had thought about going out to the Pacific and checking out the west side of Mexico, then taking a different route home. We chose to go east so that we could stay in the mountains and hopefully avoid the heat, rain, and muggy west coast. We didn't realize that the closer we got to the gulf coast, it would be the same.....hot and muggy. By the time our final morning rolled around in Cuidad Victoria, we had our sights set on getting to the border and heading back home as fast as possible. Even passing within 20 miles of the coast wasn't enough to slow down out of the upper double digits.
I've spent almost half of the last 6 years of my life in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico. Getting to see it's coast just doesn't flip my twinkie as much as it might for most. Although, it would be REALLY nice at the moment to see it....(2 broken choppers so far today so I'm stuck on the rig).
Head Bang Bable12 Head BangBable12
Dusty
10-04-2006, 02:16 PM
Wow, I am so envious. Looks like you guys had a great ride ... If you guys ever do anything like this again let me know I don't bite and I never shit on the trail.
Juice
10-04-2006, 02:21 PM
Take your Pick Curtain #1 or curtain #2
Juice's Coast 2 Coast (http://www.dualsportridersoflouisiana.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21)
Kenny's Top of the World (http://www.dualsportridersoflouisiana.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1607&highlight=top+of+the+world)
Wow, I am so envious. Looks like you guys had a great ride ... If you guys ever do anything like this again let me know I don't bite and I never shit on the trail.
Fitty
10-08-2006, 08:53 PM
Well, I'm just following Dusty around getting caught up on Ted's trip reports. All I can say is, "thanks for another great one."
ppessoa
10-17-2006, 11:45 PM
Great Aventure...Thanks for sharing it with us!
I'm planning a trip with my Dad and 2 cousing going from Baton Rouge to Panama. I can't wait!
Philip
Ritten
04-10-2007, 03:41 AM
It's been almost a year since we made this trip and already it feels like it was a dream from a dozen years ago. This summer will find me going north, but perhaps we ought to plan that DSRL trip down to Copper Canyon for spring 2008?
scootertrash
04-10-2007, 07:18 AM
Copper Canyon would be cool!Cool12
It's been almost a year since we made this trip and already it feels like it was a dream from a dozen years ago. This summer will find me going north, but perhaps we ought to plan that DSRL trip down to Copper Canyon for spring 2008?
Bayou Boy
04-10-2007, 11:47 AM
I will probably go down to the Horizon's Unlimited meeting in Creel in October this year. Bonnie may come with me. If that happens we'll be throwing the bike in the Sprinter for the run to the border.
Fitty
04-10-2007, 01:59 PM
perhaps we ought to plan that DSRL trip down to Copper Canyon for spring 2008?
Sounds like a great idea!
slopdogg
04-10-2007, 02:56 PM
Damm ted that was very cool looks like a blast just one thing where is all the pics of the HOOKERS no what i saying
Dusty
04-10-2007, 03:13 PM
yea, What he said. Were's all the bitches and hoe's?
Damm ted that was very cool looks like a blast just one thing where is all the pics of the HOOKERS no what i saying
Ritten
04-10-2007, 03:21 PM
Damm ted that was very cool looks like a blast just one thing where is all the pics of the HOOKERS no what i saying
Sorry "dawwwg"....I don't "no what you saying". Try waiting till the ringing in your ears dies down and perhaps you can hear what you're typing. That's what you get for almost blowing your leg off from dropping a loaded .357 revolver. WERRRRD!!
jfwy...:D
ONE LOVE
05-24-2007, 01:47 PM
What a fantastic expedition. I am quite new to adventure riding and have not seen many ride reports. That is new to me but very enjoyable. I can see myself spending the next few days catching up on all of the reports that are posted.
king4456
07-16-2008, 09:43 PM
bump, for a great way to spend 2 hrs of my life!
scootertrash
07-17-2008, 12:12 PM
bump, for a great way to spend 2 hrs of my life!
Just wait till Ted, Austin, hell I can't name everyone that has produced numerous ride reports... the kind that just captivate you and make you feel like you where there with them. I am hoping that in the next year I will have my life striaght enough to take some of these extended trips.. Live life on two wheels for a month or two! And make a ride that was put in my head by Ted himself. KeyWest to DeadHorse Alaska... Ted started it and had a setback halfway through it. I want to do that ride, with what Ted posted from half of the ride... it was awesome. I can only imagine what the second half would have been like. I had to quit getting on ADVRider, I would spend a half of day at work lookin at ride reports... while it was fun, I don't think my manager would appreciate it... Ted when we doing Alaska?
opus68
07-17-2008, 12:43 PM
I had to quit getting on ADVRider, I would spend a half of day at work lookin at ride reports...
Hi my name is Richie and I am a ADVriderholic.
I have that addiction too.
Juice
10-16-2008, 05:19 AM
Test
I_FLY_LOW
10-26-2008, 06:35 PM
wow... this was a very interesting way to tie up an afternoon! thanks for the bump...
Yep. Great one to "test" on. Really gets you thinking...
Zutopong
01-04-2010, 09:50 PM
Very inspiring.
The Dean
01-05-2010, 12:58 PM
killer rr!!
BigJohnD
01-06-2010, 07:04 AM
Nice to see some guys out doing it like it should be done...
Ritten
01-06-2010, 09:42 AM
Every now and again I come back to re-read this ride report. It's hard to think that it will be 4 years ago this summer already since we made the trip. Life changes and shit happens, but the entirety of the travels that I have made still haunt my thoughts and day-dreaming.
One thing I have discovered is that the times when you most want to get away will be the trips that you're most ready to get back home, but on rides like this, that are taken with no expectations possible, you discover a part of you was in a world that you never experienced before.
Juice
01-25-2010, 01:07 PM
Test
Bayou Boy
04-01-2010, 01:49 PM
Every now and again I come back to re-read this ride report. It's hard to think that it will be 4 years ago this summer already since we made the trip. Life changes and shit happens, but the entirety of the travels that I have made still haunt my thoughts and day-dreaming.
Same here Ted, same here. It was a great trip. Crazy that it was 4 years ago next month.
Steve Diaz
03-08-2011, 02:36 PM
Great line and excelent ride report. I want to go to Mexico now!
"It's perfectly acceptable for a man/men to watch Sex In the City as long as his motorcycle is between him and the television set."
2Dogs
03-08-2011, 04:07 PM
Great line and excelent ride report. I want to go to Mexico now!
You would be a lot safer if you went to Afganistan.
BigJohnD
03-08-2011, 06:16 PM
You would be a lot safer if you went to Afganistan.
There is some truth in that comment...
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