BMW R1200R report

[ka5ysy]

http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/icon10.gif Got One !
R1200R arrived in Baton Rouge today. It was sitting out in front of the dealership and I stopped in and drooled over it. Later in the afternoon after dealing with work stuff (work keeps getting in the way of my play!) I went back with the riding gear and took a ride. Best we can figure it is apparently one of the first in Louisiana. Results:

1. Really nice instrumentation with the multifunction computer setup. The startup boot of the computers cycles the instruments and displays and all the canbus doohickies say hi and the bike is ready for startup which is quick and easy. Idle is BMW quiet (amen!).

2. Takoff is smooth as silk and the power delivery is very easy to control and roll on and off. The torque available in all gears is quite nice, so a lot of shifting is unnecessary in most instances. Shifting is butter smooth. Engine compression braking is available and quite nice.


3. This particular bike is not delivered with a windscreen so proper gear and helmet is necessary. Windscreens are available in "sport" and a tall one. Likewise the bags are available, both side and topcase with a back rest to keep the siginificant other happy.

4. Handling is outstanding. This boxer is flickable and corners on rails.
Look where you want to go and press. The bike tracks there quite easily without effort.

5. Ergos: I am 5'11" 29 inseam and can flatfoot the bike easily. BMW hit the seat dead on here. Riding position is upright, and the tank forms nice knee pockets that give great wind protection and comfortable ride position at speed to the point that the lack of winscreen is not a big deal unless you are riding for extended periods.

6. ABS Brake system. NO WHINE !!!!!!! This system feels like a standard hydraulic brake system with great feedback. There is no grabbyness like the previous system. It is a one or two finger brake system which works nicely and stops you right now!. There is normal brake function with the bike switched off. No fallback partial brakes on this system. No front end dive under heavy braking.

7. Bike comes standard with a steering damper which should keep any possibility of headshake in check.

General initial impression of this bike is that it is a BMW version of the Buell Ulysses, except that it has ABS and partially linked brakes. The view while riding is quite similar except the cylinders are hanging out in the breeze instead of being up in the chassis.

Snap judgment: Buy the thing before someone else grabs it or gets a chance to ride it!

More to follow when I pick it up......http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/wings.gif


y'all don't be too jealous !http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/icon10.gif

[Juice]

Congrats Man!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Rocky]

Cool12 Cool12 B.&b

[Ritten]

STFU STFU STFU STFU


Congrats on what sounds like an awesome bike man!!!! Can't wait to see it.

[Flying Low]

so, when are you going to pick this bad boy up?

[hwy]

Checked out the R1200R in Heberts Sat. morning. Riding position feels like my GS but 2 inches lower to the ground. Couldn't test drive because the bike was already sold, but with that RT motor and light weight power should be there. Congrats

[JayD]

Sweet, congrats!

[scootertrash]

Nice!

[ka5ysy]

Good morning all:

Pickup will probably be either this Friday or the following Tuesday due to the fact that I am in a class all weekend. David wanted to keep it there for all the people who are on the view list, and I am so busy with work that it really did not create a problem for me.


The ride ergos on this bike are fantastic, and the only thing I might later consider changing is to get the bars pulled back just a little. I need to do more than the 20 or so miles I got to ride it to find out.

Power is available in all gears... top gear is drivable and not an overdrive setup, and you feel the push on roll-on.

Photos will follow, meanwhile the bike is at Heberts until that time.

Doug

[Doug]

Congrats Doug!
I've only seen it on the website.
Which color is it?

[Doug]

Congrats Doug!
I've only seen it on the website.
Which color is it?

Wait! Don't tell me, let me guess...

Granite Gray Metallic !

OK, I cheated and drove by there at lunch, even though I know they're closed on Mondays; I can still go peek in the windows right?


General initial impression of this bike is that it is a BMW version of the Buell Ulysses, except that it has ABS and partially linked brakes.

I must have missed something because I just didn't see the off-road capability like the Ulysses...
All I could see by looking through the window was a cool street bike that already comes with a steering dampner. Cool12
I'd love to ride one!

Looking at the specs, the seat is only 3/10" lower than the Ulysses but a lower seat is available for both. Does the beemer have the lower seat already on it?
Also looked to me like the beemer had smaller front forks and less ground clearance.
Looking at the specs, the Ulysses has much more suspension travel (Front/Rear = 4.7"/5.5" vs 6.51"/6.38")
But these differences are not really an issue if you're not planning to take the R12R off road like a GS or a Ulysses.


Doug, Congrats on your new bike, she's a beauty!

[Rocky]

Congrats. This thread is wothless without Pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Save-the-Manatee]

Very Nice, Congrats Doug.

[dewnmoon]

http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/icon10.gif Got One !


More to follow when I pick it up......http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/wings.gif


y'all don't be too jealous !http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/icon10.gif

Sharp ride D, It should be fun to see how many luv bugs you can collect in that intake snorkel during season.

[Doug]

Allright Douglas!
I just came back from having a nice little chat with David Darby,
so we know ya got it!
Now let it cool off long enough to post some pics!

[Doug]

Oh, and did you ride that '07 R1200S ?
the yellow one with the Ohlins?

http://www.webbikeworld.com/BMW-motorcycles/bmw-r-1200-s/r1200s.jpg

David said that thing has 120+ HP
and ABS that is disengageable for trackdays!

[Juice]

Doug has been Mia since he picked up the Bike? Prolly busy hitting up all the starbucks from here to the eastern seaboard......Pics man Where are the Pictures?

[Doug]

Here he comes...

http://www.webbikeworld.com/BMW-motorcycles/bmw-r1200r/r1200r-road.jpg

oh, well, there he went...

this may be the only way we get to see this bike.

Click Here (http://www.webbikeworld.com/BMW-motorcycles/bmw-r1200r/)

[ka5ysy]

OK...OK...... I get the message...!!!! Actually I do, contrary to all rumors, actually practice law occasionally ! The past month has been very busy for me, and I won a major trial victory on Monday this week so I should be surfacing shortly with photos after this weekend.

I have installed the RAM GPS mount for the Garmin and pulled the wiring harness, although I did not get a chance to connect to the battery just yet.

I have managed to put a bit over 100 miles on the bike so far with my very limited schedule, and it rides and handles great ! Getting perma-smile wrinkles.

Boy does this thing accelerate !..... its kinda like a catapault shot ! YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAA !!!!!!

Oh..... In the interest of clarity, I think Starbucks coffee sucks. It is way over roasted and tastes burned to me. It is also horribly overpriced.

There is ony one coffee for me: Community Dark Roast. Period. I fully intend to corrupt a lot of Beemer drivers and cure them of the Starbuck addiction.

Doug

OH.... Bob Coutney is drooling over it too..... Will get it to him for a possible LA Riders shot.

[DukeRyder]

Awesome bike! Congrats man.

Someone has one that works near where I do; I saw the thing comming at me at 100mph the other day on the way into work and it looked even better out on the street than it does in the showroom.

[ka5ysy]

Ok... things are beginning to slow down for the holidays and I am about to hit the 600 mile first service point.

Bike rides great. It purrs along quietly with great torque and can really lean over. No chicken stips left!.

For those interested in actually seeing one, I will be putting it in for the first service this saturday, and it will be in the shop for the week as I will be out of town for a DAN board meeting. (Divers will know what DAN is!) There is a December open house at Heberts and I will leave it there until that time. While there, it will be getting the cases and sport windscreen, throttlemeister and headlight modulator, so it will have some extra farkles to show off.

Already installed are the Hyperlite 16 led pair. Amazing how far back people stop now.

Heated grips are GREAT !!!

ABS Brakes: I found a measured area on the river road for the bicycle training route and there were convenient 100 foot intervals marked. I desided to see what the ABS was capable of from 65 mph on a staightaway. On crossing a marker I squeezed the front and pressed the rear brake hard to see what happened. Stop was 102 feet with the abs chattering, full control all the way. I did this several times with the same result. It is like dropping anchor, and your eyeballs pop out under the high-G deceleration. This bike will stop right now!


This thing hauls ass !Cool12

Doug

[Ritten]

Sounds like one awesome bike Doug. I wish I was in to go see it. We'll have to schedule a ride soon that you can make it to.

[ka5ysy]

Ok... Here ya go folks :

Note the relocated oil cooler on the 07. Also note the airfoil on the side of the strut to direct air into the oil cooler !

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200RforLADUALSPORT-019_edited-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200RforLADUALSPORT-016.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200RforLADUALSPORT-013_edited-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200RforLADUALSPORT-012_edited-2.jpg


First service time ! 614 miles total. 43 mpg so far, and improving each ride as the engine runs in.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200RforLADUALSPORT-010_edited-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200RforLADUALSPORT-007.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200RforLADUALSPORT-006.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200RforLADUALSPORT-003_edited-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200RforLADUALSPORT-001_edited-1.jpg

WARNING: The Surgeon General has determined that drooling on your monitor is hazardous to it and yourself !

[Juice]

Today I had the privilege of examining Doug's new steed up close and personal when he stopped by for a visit. Congrats Man, I am so envious of you. That is one beautiful machine. I can't wait to get you out on a group ride with us.....

[silas]

Dude. I think I saw you in BR today, blazing through traffic. That's an awesome looking machine.

[Rocky]

Woo Hoo Hoo. That thing looks like a Blast!!!!! Congrats on the new scoot and thanks for the report!!!

[jason70360]

I love that guage cluster, the stack-look is awesome!

Congrats!!!!!!!!!

[ka5ysy]

Here are some photos of the luggage, sport screen and Throttlemeister farkles.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200Rpt2-001_edited-1.jpg


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200Rpt2-003_edited-1.jpg


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200Rpt2-006_edited-1.jpg


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200Rpt2-007_edited-1.jpg

The new Throttlemeister in crinkle black looks great. This is the "Heavy" version and is easy to engage and disengage while twisting the throttle on or off. It also seems to eliminate some of the high frequency buzziness!

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/R1200Rpt2-008.jpg

[Juice]

Looks Nice, what kind of bags are those?

[ka5ysy]

Looks Nice, what kind of bags are those?


These are the BMW bags for the bike.

[ka5ysy]

Today I did a 100 miler at various speeds up to about 75 on the Interstate system around Baton Rouge and got a chance to figure out where the air blast from the "sport Screen" (short one) on the R1200R was hitting me.


As I initially thought, the wind blast is hitting me approximately neck level, with turbulent air directly on the face plate of the X-11 helmet.


This is causing a pronounced rumble inside the helmet when riding. I verified the turbulence area by standing slightly and raising up about 6-8 inches off the seat. This placed the helmet in smooth air and the rumble was elimiinated.

Based on this, I would defiinitely NOT recommend the sport screen. I will be ordering the taller one shortly, which should place the wind blast over the helmet.

Perhaps a laminar lip type device would correct the problem with the sport screen, or BMW should consider redesigning the sport screen to be more verticle and not bent backward as it currently is.

Doug

[ka5ysy]

This is one fine bike !

[ka5ysy]

Yesterday I ran by Hebert's and the tall windscreen had arrived. I installed it and the required bracket and did an initial fast run down Airline Highway on the way home. This screen appears to move the wind turbulence up to the top of my helmet eliminating a lot of the rumble noted with the "sport screen" version.

I will post some pictures shortly and do a longer run and report on the results. Initial impression is that it is very good at deflecting wind off the torso, and seems to be pushing the wind outboard of the hand grips better than the sportscreen.

[ka5ysy]

After running the "tall" BMW Screen, I have found that the turbulent air over the top of the screen is hitting my helmet just above the top of the face shield. Net result of this is that this screen simply has moved the wind noise on the helmet up higher, but for me is still unacceptable.

I am 5"11" and using the standard seat. Presumably if someone were shorter than me with the low seat, this windscreen would place the turbulent flow over the helmet.

Result, is that CeeBailey 18" screen is on order. It fits the BMW tall screen bracket, so at least I dont have to buy another bracket.

[ka5ysy]

Today under the clear cold sky of South Louisiana I made a 105 mile run at various speeds up to about 85mph to see how the Cee Bailey 18" screen works. Remember that I am trying to get the buffet off the helmet, and to reduce the noise for the speakers in the helmet.

Results as follows:

1. Leaving the driveway and running the 25mph in my neighborhood, I immediately noticed that there was no wind on the faceplate at all. Good sign. Now for some interstate travel toward New Orleans.


2. I-10 southbound, cruising 70-80 mph the first thing noticed is that the Cee Bailey screen completely moved the buffet that I was getting on my shoulders about 2 inches outboard either shoulder. This is great. The BMW Tall screen is too narrow, resulting in an annoying buffet like someone is boxing with your shoulders when running over 60 mph. The effect is kind of like riding in a speedboat. Ok, but you are getting bumped around gently, and it gets old after several hours.


3. Continuing the high speed cruise, I needed to pass several large trucks causing a lot of turbulent air and merged into the pass lane traffic moving some 85 mpg. I noticed the same slight rumble on the helmet as as 70-75, however it was very slightly more pronounced, so after passing the trucks and getting back in my lane while maintaining traffic speed of 85, I began to feel around the helmet to see what was happening. there are two effects being noticed.

A. As wind speed increases, the slight narrowing of the screen toward the top is allowing a little of the side-deflected air to curl back in and is sliding by the helmet.

B. The slight upward curl that is built into the screen (see photos below) is causing a stall burble (pilots know what this is) as the laminar airflow leaves the top of the screen. This burble is flowing almost precisely along the top of my helmet and gives a mild rumble not nearly as pronounced as the BMW screen, but can be noticed without earplugs. Good news is that the high-pressure air seems to be about an inch over the top of the helmet. My impression is that this small stall burble is probably in a good place to inject air into the intakes on the top of the helmet when the temperatures here turn hot in the summer. Total lack of that flow would be a miserable experience.

Net result of the experiment is that I can recommend the Cee Bailey 18 inch screen for someone more or less my height (5"11") as way superior to the BMW tall screen. For those wanting the complete elimination of the buffet noise, go with the 20" touring screen. I may order on of those and see how it works after I play with the 18" for a while.

Ok, so here are the photos of the setup:

Right side view of the bike. Notice the upward curve of the screen in the last inch or so of the top of the screen.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey-008.jpg

Front left oblique view for reference.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey-007_edited-1.jpg


Leftside overall view:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey-006.jpg


Front View. Notice that I am holding the BMW "Tall" screen in the exact registration for comparison purposes. Note the height difference for comparison on this view.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey-005.jpg

An Oblique view of the screens together. Here you can see that the BMW Screen is not quite as wide as the Cee Bailey screen, and also notice that the BMW screen is quite rounded as you approach the top of that screen. The rounding is what I believe causes the shoulder buffeting I was objecting too.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey-004.jpg


A left side view of both screens for comparison.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey-003.jpg

Another side view of the Cee Bailey 18" by itself, mounted on the BMW tall screen bracket. Remember that you MUST use the BMW bracket. Cee Bailey does not supply that part. This view is approximately eye level with the mirrors so you can see the height of the screen for comparison.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey-001_edited-1.jpg




So, the bottom line is this: The Cee Bailey 18" screen is WAY better than spending money on the BMW tall screen in its currently issued form. The Cee Bailey has much better wind protection. If you want absolute wind protection, go with the Cee Bailey 20" screen.

This is a great product worth the price.Cool12


More Farkles to come ! Stay tuned !!


Doug

[Flying Low]

were you on i-10 today heading back to BR? (yellow jacket?)

if so, nice bike. its a real eye catcher

[ka5ysy]

were you on i-10 today heading back to BR? (yellow jacket?)

if so, nice bike. its a real eye catcher

Yep.. that was me on the downwind leg !

[ka5ysy]

I got back from a week in Arizona today, and the UPS truck dropped off the Cee Bailey 20" screen for the R1200R. I have it mounted, and will post some photos and a ride report ASAP.

Doug

[ka5ysy]

OK, so I made a ride about 40 miles to see how this one worked, and it is great. If you remember the story of the Three Bears, this sceen is "Just Right" !

The air blast is about 95% over the top of my helmet and still gives enough spill to load air into the intakes of the helmet (Shoei X-11), so it should work well for the summer months. Much of the wind noise is gone, and I can actually ride with the helmet shield open without a lot of wind blasting into my face. Contact lens wearers will understand how great this is !

Here are the photos of the 20" Cee Bailey screen:

Right side photo showing the curl at the upper edge of the screen. If you compare the photos of the 18" screen above, you would not notice a lot of difference in the design or the height, as it is properly proportioned for the bike.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey20inch--1.jpg

Here is another shot of the screen from the left side front.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey20inch--2.jpg

Here I am holding the Cee Bailey 18" screen in place for comparison.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey20inch--3.jpg


Front view of the Cee Bailey 18" against the Cee Bailey 20" screen.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey20inch--4.jpg

For comparison, here is the BMW "Tall" screen against the 20" Cee Bailey.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey20inch--5.jpg

Front view of the BMW "Tall" against the Cee Bailey 20".
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey20inch--6.jpg


Here is a right side overall view of the Cee Bailey 20" screen
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CeeBailey20inch--7.jpg


So now that all the screens have been tested, I have to say that I can highly recommend the 20" Cee Bailey. It solves, for me, all the gripes with the other screens.

I will probably keep the BMW Sport Screen with the specific idea of cutting it down a little to see if I can get the wind blast under the helmet and just over my shoulders for hot weather riding. I will keep the group informed on this project.

More farkle reports as I get a chance !

Good Riding All !

Doug

[JayD]

Nice looking rig Doug

[ka5ysy]

Nice looking rig Doug

Thanks! If the weather would straighten out and I get a break from all the stuff going on, I would love to get together with everyone for a ride and check out all the bikes.

Doug

[JayD]

It won't be long, as soon as the weather straightens out and warms up we'll have some good rides coming up

[ka5ysy]

OK, so now that I have about 2,000 miles on the bike and having done several rides of more than 2 hours each both solo and 2-up and I can now report without doubt that the stock seat sucks if ridden more than an hour or so. The rounded curve exerts serious pressure points on your butt that are very uncomfortable.Oops


The Boss (Dr. Judy) reports that riding in the back results in the same problem. She sat on an RT in the dealership and says it is a much better seat, probably because it has a much flatter section design.

Plan of action at this point is research an aftermarket seat, probably a Rick Mayer upgrade.

More to follow.

[ka5ysy]

In response to a number of E-mails, I can report the following data:

Bike is getting very close to 50 miles per gallon calculated by actual fuel consumption versus milage since fill. The onboard computer is actually running fairly close on the actual calculations and normally shows about 48 mpg average per tank.


Tank capacity with 10 miles showing on the computer is about 5.3 gallons when filled on the center stand. I usually rock the bike on the stand when filling to burp the tank and maximize fuel load.


I am presently running about 235-245 miles per tank running around town with mixed 70-80 mph runs of 20 miles or so between home and the city.

[ka5ysy]

After doing some two-up with The Boss, I was instructed to do something to install an intercom system.

So.....

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/barrisersandintercom-5.jpg


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/barrisersandintercom-4.jpg


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/barrisersandintercom-6.jpg


The Autocom system is very easy to install. The super pro is a hardwired 12vdc system, and they have some other systems that are portable with battery power. This unit is interesting in that it has a lot of inputs for various sources and has a lot of options for configuring the inputs if you need something oddball. The Garmin GPS interfaced easily. Originally I was using the plug in to the earphone jack of the Garmin, but while installing the bar risers I pulled that lead and wired the audio line which is inside the Garmin power/data cable included with the GPS. This eliminates another wire to run.

Anyway, the Autocom has an interesting feature; the audio from the GPS/XM automatically fades down when either person talks, so you dont miss anything. It uses a very good vox setup for the intercom function that does not false-trigger excessively. It uses a second microphone in the helmet to detect ambient noise and does some adjustments for volume and apparently the vox/antivox circuitry. Net result is a nice hands-off setup. I will eventually interface my cellphone to the device, but xm is great right now. Oh... The phone interface mutes all audio when it is active. Another nice touch!

This particular device is not watertight so some kind of mounting to protect it is necessary. I happened to have a Pelican 1020 box that fits it perfectly, and with a Dremel grinder, I notched the top (part without the gasket) lid to pass the cables. The size of the Pelican case is a perfect fit to sit in the area under the rear of the seat, and ahead of the tail light assembly.


BAR RISERS:


One of the other minor annoyances that I have had with the R1200R is that after about an hour or so my back muscles begin to stress with the slightly forward lean angle required with the stock bar position. DRothermel . over on the r1150r.org board :

http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=9456

found some Moto Techniques risers listed for the r1150r and tried them and discovered they work fine on the R1200R, so I ordered a set at

http://www.moto-techniques.com

and the result is this:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/barrisersandintercom-3.jpg
Very nice fit and finish of the bars !


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/barrisersandintercom-2.jpg



So the net result of the installation of the bar risers is that the bike is much more comfortable on long rides, and steering inputs are essentially unchanged. This is a nice addition to the bike.

Part number: 513-062M Handle Bar Riser R1150R 1" Rise 1-1/4" Setback Price is $39.95

[ONE LOVE]

Very nice review. Thanks for the commentary.

[ka5ysy]

Judy and I took a ride Saturday via LA22 over to Hammond then to Global Wildlife Center and several other places then ran down to Middendorff's for some catfish and home via I55 and I10

Results:

Total run on tank = 257 miles.
Computer showing 40 miles to empty, no fuel light on.

Refill = 5.150 gallons on center stand.
Computed tank average - 49.9mpg including about 100 miles of city stop and go on the tank earlier this week.

Computer was showing 58-60mpg today a lot of the time running 55-60mph.

This is a FINE bike http://www.r1150r.org/board/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif

Except the seat, which sucks after one hour http://www.r1150r.org/board/images/smiles/icon_sad.gif

Alaska Leather butt pad on order http://www.r1150r.org/board/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif

[ka5ysy]

Just finished a run:

260.3 miles on tank with 10 showing left on the computer
5.5 gallons filled on center stand
= 47.32 mpg
Bike is now at 5,000 miles total.

Average speed 69.2 mph. The speed average is some in-city and a bunch of fast and hard acceleration in twisties and on the interstate running about 75-80mph with throttlemeister locked on cruise.


Butt Pad Report:

The Alaska Leather Butt Pad is worth every dime... makes the sucky seat good for more than my bladder range or a tank of gas, whichever occurs first !

:)

[FZ1LA]

How do you like the throttlemeister ka5ysy? How do you turn it on/off?

That R1200R is a great looking bike!

[ka5ysy]

How do you like the throttlemeister ka5ysy? Is it the one that installs in place of the bar end? Can you turn it off or is it always on?

That R1200R is a great looking bike!


The one I have is the black crinkle finish "Heavy" version. It (they..it is a pair) install on the bar ends in place of the original ones and help damp the vibrations from the engine almost completely. Nice thing is that they look like the OEM ends and are not obvious unless you look at the decal, which can be removed as you cannot read it anyway !

The throttle side locks as if you are rolling on throttle, and rolls off like rolling off throttle, so it is consistent and instinctive. It is easily adjusted as to the amount of drag, so you can roll off throttle with the friction set. The Heavy weights actually are much easier to operate with gloves than the short ones. They manufacture a new "fluted" version of the black that is very nice looking too.

Highly recommended product for cruising ! There is a photograph up above of the throttle side installation. PM me if you want to look at it up close and personal, and I will send my phone number.

Doug

[ka5ysy]

I have received several email inquiries about the wind protection on the bike, so this response to answer those questions.


The basic setup on the R1200R is either no windscreen or an OEM or aftermarket screen as noted above. The questions concern leg protection while riding.

The tank design contains a nice knee pocket that does remarkably well in shielding the legs while riding. I have done some cold weather runs (40-50 degrees F is cold weather down here !) without necessity of the liner in my Motoport Airmesh kevlar pants, and was completely comfortable for two hour rides.

Rainy weather is also a good test of the airflow around the tank and the cylinders. Again, the protection is very good for the most part. I have been caught in some heavy squalls and only put on the rain jacket without the pants and my legs remained dry so long as I was moving. The front wheel and cylinders offer very nice wind protection to the lower legs.

I suspect that BMW did some wind tunnel studies to get correct airflow around the tank , and they succeeded nicely. Besides, the tank just looks good too!

[ka5ysy]

This machine gets better and better !

Yesterday I did a tank fill with 23 miles showing on the computer. Put 5.1 gallons in. Trip Odometer read 265 miles. Figure it out !


Tire status: Conti Road Attacks. Other than a noticable flat area at the center of the tires, still lots of tread life left and stick like glue. Great road tires.

The engine runs smoothly, and purrs along at whatever speed you choose, although the gearing makes the bike happy above 2000 RPM, which is fine for me.

Since the initial breakin period and 600 mile service, the engine has used NO oil at all.

The Alaska Leather sheepskin is worth every penny paid for it: The stock seat was good for about one hour. Now it is an all day seat if necessary. Amazing product and highly recommended.

The intercom system has been interfaced with my cellphone, and after playing with the levels a bit, works great as advertised.. I am looking to add a dual band VHF/UHF Ham radio setup, Probably a Yaesu FTM-10R. This radio also had AM/FM broadcast receivers in it, so would add to the entertainment value.

Auxillary lighting is in the distance, as the stock headlight is very effective.

I will post a maintenance price for the 6000 mile service. Incidentally, I will be having the final drive and transmission oil changed along with the engine oil. AMSOIL Full synthetic motorcycle oil is the only way to go with an air cooled engine.

This is still the best motorcycle I have ever ridden. I LOVE THIS BIKE !

[ka5ysy]

Here is the 6000 mile breakout from Hebert's BMW. Keep in mind that I supplied my own oil (Amsoil Motorcycle synthetic) and Mobil-1 Full synthetic GL-5 gear lube for the transmission and final drive.

1. 6000 mile service 1.5 hrs @ 80.00/hr= 120.00
2. Rear Drive Service .5 hrs = 40.00
3. Gearbox Service .5 hrs = 20.00

Prebooking special discount = -30.00

PARTS:

Oil FIlter 16.05
wast disposal fee 3.00
Misc shop supplies 5.00
seal .77
gasket ring 1.54


sales tax 15.87


TOTAL 6000 mile service bill $192.23


The actual service time is dead on to the estimated flat rates in the service guide.

I requested the additional service of the transmission and final drive as it is not that much trouble to change it when on the lift, and is good insurance to keep the fluids changed regularly.

Considering that I had the pleasure of playing with the R1200RT and the F800ST bikes for the whole time I was in for service, I find the whole experience and pricing quite reasonable.

[ka5ysy]

New naked bike comparison:


BMW R1200R ,

Ducati Multistrada 1100,

Moto Guzzi Breva 1100,

and

Buell XB12X Ulysses




BMW RESULT:

“If you’re a harder-core sport rider,” adds Duke Danger, “the R1200R is the only machine of this quartet that can keep the Duc’s taillight in view. And, in the right hands, the Beemer can show its taillight to a Multistrada rider.”


"The R1200R might very well be the best motorcycle of this group. Its muscular motor output should be a lesson to the Buell and Guzzi engineering staff, and it possesses an unflappable chassis that can also dice it up when the roads get twisty."


http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gif http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gifhttp://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gif http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/clap.gif

article is here:

http://www.motorcycle.com/shoot-outs/2007-aircooled-twins-naked-comparo-64505.html

[2Evil4U]

Lol1

That's a fairly accurate write-up of the Uly. I will assume, just from this one article, that they don't generally test many H-D's though.

That low RPM sneeze has been a birth-rite trait of every Harley-Davidson motor ever produced. Fuel-map Schmuel-map. If you crack the throttle open too fast from a dead idle it will cough. Period. That's the main reason most HD riders rap the throttle when they are taking off. It keeps the fuel in the motor and alleviates the cough. (Plus it sounds cool.) :)

[ka5ysy]

Lol1

That's a fairly accurate write-up of the Uly. I will assume, just from this one article, that they don't generally test many H-D's though.

That low RPM sneeze has been a birth-rite trait of every Harley-Davidson motor ever produced. Fuel-map Schmuel-map. If you crack the throttle open too fast from a dead idle it will cough. Period. That's the main reason most HD riders rap the throttle when they are taking off. It keeps the fuel in the motor and alleviates the cough. (Plus it sounds cool.) :)


I am actually hoping to get a ride on an 08 Uly, if one shows up, with the new mapping and engine setup and update my Uly report on the board. One of the perks of teaching Riders Edge !Cool12

[ka5ysy]

Todays run: 276.5 miles
Tank fill = 5.512 gallons.

Tank average MPG=50.16 mpg

Bike is running smoother and smoother with the Amsoil onboard.Cool12


The computer was showing 24 miles to end of tank at the fill time.

[Save-the-Manatee]

Great report.

[Bayou Boy]

Lol1

That's a fairly accurate write-up of the Uly. I will assume, just from this one article, that they don't generally test many H-D's though.

That low RPM sneeze has been a birth-rite trait of every Harley-Davidson motor ever produced. Fuel-map Schmuel-map. If you crack the throttle open too fast from a dead idle it will cough. Period. That's the main reason most HD riders rap the throttle when they are taking off. It sounds cool. (Plus it keeps the fuel in the motor and alleviates the cough.) :)

Fixed to show actual order of importance for most HD riders.Coffee12

[ka5ysy]

Having decided to become obnoxiously visible in traffic from the front, I ordered a Kisan headlight modulator:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/KisanP115W-A6.jpg

I immediately discover a problem: The Kisan PathBlazer P115W-A6 headlight modulator is listed as a plug and play for the R1200R and newer BMW motorcycles with the 6-pin AMP plug that is plugged into the wiring harness between the wiring harness toward the bike and the headlight rear plug. Due to the extra length that is added by the Kisan plug, the whole assembly is too long to stay plugged in properly when you turn the bars lock-to-lock because the Kisan connector has no physical lock mechanism to keep it in the lamp housing and is encountering interference with the charcoal canister and clutch hydraulic cable running through there.

THE MODULE I RECEIVED ONLY HAS THREE WIRES, NOT THE FOUR SHOWN IN THE PHOTO !

After doing a slice-n-dice with my handy Dremel tool to see how the Kisan plug passes thru the circuitry, I cut off the whole plug from the flasher module and wired it in directly to the light harness as follows:

WIRING IN THE KISAN P115W-A6:

1. Remove the headlight housing by removing the two screws on either side of the mounting bracket (Torx wrench in the tool kit) and unplug the harness from the headlamp and set out of the way. Don't misplace the screws, so put them in the housing!

2. Carefully, with some diagonal cutters or sharp knife, open the fabric tape wound around the wiring harness about mid-way up what you can see. Be very careful not to nick the wires or you will have to splice them and solder the connection back together.

You will find four (4) wires as follows:

Yellow
Blue/white tracer
Brown
White

For this installation we are only interested in the Brown and White wires.

3. Cut the plug off the Kisan module and strip about 1/2 inch of insulation from the three wires on the module colored as follows:

White
Green
Red.

4. Cut the WHITE wire in the headlight harness about midway of the opening in the black fabric tape wrap you made in step 2 above.


5. Carefully open the insulation on, BUT DO NOT CUT, the BROWN wire.


NOW WE WIRE IN THE MODULE:

6. Solder the Module WHITE wire to the WHITE wire on the MOTORCYCLE side of the harness and tape insulate the joint.

7. Solder the Module RED wire to the White wire leading to the headlamp PLUG and wrap this connection with tape to insulate.

8. Wrap the Module GREEN wire around the BROWN harness wire gap you made in step 5 above a number of turns and solder the connection, which will form a "T" connection. Wrap this connection with tape to insulate.


At this point it is time for the "smoke test". Install and plug in the light sensor to the connection on the module itself. I mounted my sensor on the windscreen mounting bracket (Touring bracket) with some zip-ties so I can install the sport screen if I want to.

Turn on your key and start the motorcycle and check for headlight high-beam operation. In bright light (or shine a flashlight on the sensor) the high beam should begin flashing. Covering the sensor with a finger should shut off the flasher and make the high beam light normally.


9. Wrap the exposed wires of the module with electrical tape to protect them, and wrap additional electrical tape over the completed joints at the harness where you made the soldered splices.

10. Carefully route the module wires back toward the motorcycle end of the harness and zip-tie them in place above the charcoal canister, checking for interference. It is suggested that the canister be removed to give you space to work in here.. it is very tight without doing that. Remember to mark the hoses and the canister to match them back up.

11. Plug in the headlamp before mounting the headlamp housing and replacing and tightening the screws. Remember to bring a Torx to set the headlights after dark since you have moved them!


Here is a diagram of the wiring setup after you wire in the module


MOTORCYCLE SIDE OF HARNESS


Harness wires:
1=YELLOW
2=BLUE/WHITE
3=BROWN
4=WHITE

1 2 3 4
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | O---Module White wire
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | O---------------------Module Green wire
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
| | | O----Module Red wire
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
V V V V
HEADLIGHT PLUG SIDE OF HARNESS


12. Ride safely and go forth and irritate car drivers with your flashing headlamp that they notice !



MEANWHILE, AT THE BACK END OF THE BIKE:


While browsing the Kisan Catalog, I noticed an interesting gadget that is applicable to a lot of motorcycles: A Kisan TrailBlazer taillight flasher!

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/KISAN20W-DZ.jpg

Operation: TailBlazer flashes the taillights the instant you apply the brakes. The flash rate then slows down to a steady ON - this cycle lasts about 4 seconds. This flash pattern is called a Deceleration Warning. The base of this device has the electronics for the flashing logic built in.

They have models for all motorcycles, and this is a really great product !


Installation is simply to remove standard the bayonet bulb and replace it with the Kisan unit. Notice that the new bulb is a halogen bulb, which immediately give a lot more light than the standard bulb. As lagniappe, you get a spare second bulb for the light!

Remember that I also have the Hyper-Lite dual 16-led setup on either side of the license plate:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/Hyper-liteflashBig.gif


The combination of the Hyper-Lite and the Kisan flashers is GREAT ! Anyone who fails to notice me from the rear is totally blind ! Cool12

Ride Safe out there !

Doug

[minig0d]

nice write up... I would watch out about flashing red lights though I mean I'm sure you could look up the law more easily then me but its my understanding that that is not quite legal and may get you hassled... but then again who knows :)

[ka5ysy]

nice write up... I would watch out about flashing red lights though I mean I'm sure you could look up the law more easily then me but its my understanding that that is not quite legal and may get you hassled... but then again who knows :)

Actually, flashing red lights to the rear is legal, although some locals might not have gotten the word.

[nickatnite]

I've been running the BRAKE! taillight for a year now and love it!! No problems with Law Enforcement, red flashing to the rear (even if constant) is DOT legal.


As far as showing a commission, if you get pulled over in Terrebone Parish by LSP, they really don't give a shit, DAMHIK....

[ka5ysy]

An interesting problem has developed: I took the bike outside this afternoon to set the sensitivity on the Kisan headlight modulator, and now the Canbus is getting upset. Oops

I am calling Kisan Tech Support and see what gives... It was working fine in the workshop. Hmmmmm


More to follow

[nickatnite]

An interesting problem has developed: I took the bike outside this afternoon to set the sensitivity on the Kisan headlight modulator, and now the Canbus is getting upset. Oops

I am calling Kisan Tech Support and see what gives... It was working fine in the workshop. Hmmmmm


More to follow

Not to wish you any bad karma or anything, BUT......

If you tapped into the bikes system and threw a fault to the CANBUS, you are gonna have to go to BMW and have it re-set and such.

Also, good luck trying to get warranty work for electrical too!

Per the words DIRECTLY out of Lisa Hebert's mouth, "If you work on your own bike, you WILL void your warranty!!!"

Have a copy of the Moss act ready.

Deep down, lets just hope that you can troubleshoot it and back working.

[Shaq Diesel]

Is it affecting your bike or just making a pretty light come up?

[ka5ysy]

Not to wish you any bad karma or anything, BUT......

If you tapped into the bikes system and threw a fault to the CANBUS, you are gonna have to go to BMW and have it re-set and such.

Also, good luck trying to get warranty work for electrical too!

Per the words DIRECTLY out of Lisa Hebert's mouth, "If you work on your own bike, you WILL void your warranty!!!"

Have a copy of the Moss act ready.

Deep down, lets just hope that you can troubleshoot it and back working.


To Clarify: The computer in the bike is not the problem and nothing needs resetting. What is happening is a known fault with the Kisan which was supposed to be fixed... the flash circuit makes the Canbus circuit think the bulb has blown each time it flashes. Other than the obnoxious flashing of the warning triangle and the "Bulb" fault on the odometer display, the thing is working.

There is or was supposed to be a fix where the module is switching a resistive load to the canbus to fool the computer into thinking there is still continuity in the lamp circuit. I know that they have it figured out, as the tail light system does not do this. I actually think I may have been shipped an earlier version as the photo on the website appears to have 4 or 5 wires to the harness and mine has only 3.

Dont you just love all the games we have to play with electrical stuff?


Impressively, I just received a callback from Kisan tech support as I was typing this and advised them of my installation procedures. I was assured that they would call back tomorrow after discussing the canbus indicators with the engineers. This is great tech support !

In about five minutes after the last call noted, I received another call from Kisan and have been instructed to remove the module and ship it back to them for exchange with a "Z" model. They are also going to try a low profile plug for me to avoid the interference problems previously discussed.

KISAN HAS THE BEST CUSTOMER RESPONSE I HAVE SEEN IN YEARS ! WOW!!

Everyone please do business with them

[2Evil4U]

That is pretty impressive service. I'm debating the headlight modulator. Shouldn't be as difficult to wire into my Buell. I think there are a total of three wires on the whole bike. ;)

[ka5ysy]

Is it affecting your bike or just making a pretty light come up?


Only thing that happens is that the computer thinks the bulb blew out and is showing the warning triangle on main display, and the computer display flashes "BULB" in the same display line as the odometer. Bike runs fine.

[dewnmoon]

Personally have been using a modulator in one form or the other since the "Q-Switch" from the early 80's

If a headlite modulator helps a "cager " from turning in front of me, great. Some may find them annoying, so be it. You can allways turn it off.

Added the hyperlights mounted inside my tail light housing and found an immediate positive effect. Cars slow up sooner and further back than before. Even using the option of having them flash for 5 seconds then stay on.

[ka5ysy]

I just finished installing the GS handguards on the R12R. Photos to follow after I get my main computer back online after blowing up (literally) the motherboard.

Basically, I installed them over the Throttlemeister heavy bar ends simply by taking a 1 1/2 inch hole saw and boring out the hole used in the GS installations. Slipped into position easily.

Ride report to follow too !

[ka5ysy]

One of the things that was on the minor annoyance list for the R1200R was that in cold weather, my hands would freeze on the outside and cook on the inside when the grip heaters were running. As everyone also knows, getting hit with large insects and the occasional rock on the knuckles hurts !

Since I first examined the R1200GS bikes, I really liked the handguards on the bike, but did not think that they would work with the R1200R setup I had with the heavy weight Throttlemeisters installed. My major concern was that the right side Throttlemeister would not function, as it needs to rotate freely to set and release the throttle friction .

Having been hit on the knuckles (again!) while riding several weeks ago, I ran by Hebert's BMW and asked Corey to order me the R1200GS handguard mounting kit after examining the GSA they had in the showroom. I figured I could gamble a hundred bucks or so to play, and handed over the plastic.

Receiving the kit a couple of days later, I got home after court, and proceeded to see how I could make these guards work without a major project developing.

Eyeballing the initial fit, I made the immediate observation that the Throttlemeisters were too long for properly mounting the handguards to the new mirror mount/clamp assembly which comes in the kit. Oops !qwer


The U.S. Army taught me to "Improvise, Adapt and Overcome" Thanks12


I took out a caliper to measure the diameter of Throttlemeister where the end of the handguard would need to sit, and discovered that it is about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Hmmmm..... I just think that I might have a hole saw bit that diameter, and after looking at the end of the handguard, it had enough plastic left around the standard hole to allow a drill-out of the end :)

Pull out the drill and diameter bit and punch through the end of the handguards, and the result was perfect for my setup:

Total installation time was about 30 minutes. Highly recommended modification. Ride Report: I went for a quick run down I-10 to Baton Rouge and the guards work perfectly. The air stream seems to be about 1 inch or so over my hands. One could also add the Touratech add-on spoilers if much more height is necessary.

I noticed that having the handguards on actually stabilizes the bike at cruise speed and you can go hands-off and not have to make control inputs as often as without them.

Overall, this is a very nice addition to the bike without a lot of expense, and is very easy to do. If you have some other style bar-ends, this mounting would be easily accomplished simply by drilling with the appropriate hole saw drill bit. Cool12

This is the right side setup:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/GSHandguard_0009.jpg


Right side front view:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/GSHandguard_0005.jpg

Left side:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/GSHandguard_0002.jpg

Left side front view:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/GSHandguard_0003.jpg

[nickatnite]

Nice product review.

I got one question and NOT to stir a heated debate. Did you look at the Kaoko throttle control for your bike? I mean they are like 50.00 bucks cheaper and you do not have to drill out the hand guards on your bike?

Also, to me the kaoko is easier to turn off and on due to the raised portions. I can turn off and on or adjust rather with one hand.
http://www.adventurersworkshop.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/1200GSthrottlecontrol.jpg

And I also agree with you that using those hand guards makes the bars more stable with wind drag and coefficient (not to mention riding in the rain). And when you set the throttle on some good open roads, you can ride with just your left hand or if you really don't catch yourself, no hands at all.. I love mine. It's probably one of the most single mods that I love on my bike.


Oh yeah,
Can you post a pic of how you have your cockpit set up?

Thanks

[ka5ysy]

Hi Nick:

No, I did not look at the Kaoko simply because when I got the bike, I needed something quickly as a cruise control, and Hebert's happens to be the local dealer for Throttlemeister.

This was a case of me being cheap and not wanting to spend money on another set of bar-ends !

It is actually quite easy to set the friction on my setup using my thumb and small finger either inside or outside the handguard end.

Doug

[ka5ysy]

...
Oh yeah,
Can you post a pic of how you have your cockpit set up?

Thanks


Here ya go:


The setup uses Ram mounts. The GPS is a Garmin 376C with XM radio and the "Fisherman" package for the XM Weather feature. I love to see where the rain is so I can stop and get in my suit before getting drenched. Alternatively, I have used it quite successfully to simply route around the showers, and avoid heavy thunderstorms altogether !

The cellphone is housed in one of the Ram Aqua Boxs. These things have a membrane (replacable!) which allows punching buttons to answer a call. There are four sizes, depending on what you have to put in there. I have the audio of both items interfaced into the Autocom unit described in a previous post here, and can listen to both. A cell call mutes the XM audio until the phone call is over. Most people report that the audio from the noise cancelling microphone in the helmet is so good, they don't realize I am riding the bike!

RAM SITE HERE:
http://www.ram-mount.com/aqua_box_mount/aqua_box_mount.htm

Phone case closed:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CockpitView--2.jpg

Phone case open:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/CockpitView--1.jpg

[ka5ysy]

As promised by the nice folks at Kisan Technologies, I received the swap-out module with the "Z" option installed.

Opening the package I found the module without the plug as I requested when I sent the original module back. Remember, I cut the plug off due to its length and hard wired it as noted in a previous post. Kisan, showing outstanding customer service, allowed a return of the module at no cost, swapped the new version for me. I even offered to pay for the plug that I cut off !

There was a second small plastic ziploc bag containing a small light bulb with this note:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/KisanZmodulator--1.jpg


Note the warning that the ballast bulb gets hot, and must be accounted for in mounting the module. Hmmmm........

Here are several photos of the actual module, and you can see how the ballast bulb mounts . The only difference visible on the module itself are the two small plug holes for the ballast bulb to plug in.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/KisanZmodulator--2.jpg

CLoser view detailing the ballast bulb and plug:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/KisanZmodulator--3.jpg

After wiring in the module as previously described (same color codes) it was time to mount the module somewhere to account for the hot bulb. I could not stuff it up in the area under the tank I previously tried due to the hot bulb problem. I eventually decided that a good spot is on the charcoal cannister bracket using zip ties and taking care to secure the wires attaching to the module to avoid flexing the cables at the module as noted in the following photos:

Wide view showing position:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7077_edited-1.jpg

Slightly tighter view:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7075_edited-1.jpg

Really close view:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7076_edited-1.jpg



Operationally this setup is not activating the "bulb" warning from the canbus computer at this time which solves the flashing warnings on the instrument cluster. I will update this report after I get it out and ride around a day or so.

The only problem that may occur with the setup at this point is the use of a push-in friction-hold bulb socket for the ballast to maintain the proper load on the canbus. Besides the heat issue, the use of push-in plugs on the bulb might be an issue with vibration shaking it loose, or corrosion if/when the contacts get wet. My first thought is to replace the bulb with a proper 25 watt resistor. The other possibility is to remote the bulb if necessary. Obviously these two items would increase manufacture cost for the OEM module, plus the module would increase in size a bit to add another plug.


Doug

[Dusty]

excellent review. Bravo

[ka5ysy]

I posted a comment over on the BMW R1200R board:

http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=11813


and received a comment from Don Eilenberger about how he mounted his Kisan module inside the headlight housing. He has photos of it here:

http://www.eilenberger.net/R1200R_Roadster/kisan_headlight_modulator_fix.htm

After looking at the setup that Don has for his Kisan installation, I went out and in about 15 minutes total, swapped the module into the headlight housing. My setup is now essentially identical, except that I hard-wired my module inside the housing. I did do one minor modification: there is a casting ridge in the plastic part of the reflector that was interfering with the position of the module. I got out the handy Dremel tool and cut the ridge out with a router bit.

I drilled a hole for the daylight sensor lead and resealed it with some silicone.

Final recommendation: Put the whole thing in the light housing. Much cleaner installation.

[ka5ysy]

As is usually the case, there are always "things" that need to be improved on which become apparent as you ride.

One thing that has always worried me a little about the bike is the plastic cylinder guards that were on the bike. Obviously these things are for tipover protection, and would probably not survive a bad crash with a long slide. After looking around I found these:

Verholen part number 11059, R1200GS cylinder protection, stainless steel and mount on the two lower rocker arm cover bolts. Nice heavy construction, much better than black plastic. There is a good half inch clearance inside the guards as well as a number of heavy rubber bumpers to protect the actual rocker arm cover.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7194_0101.jpg

The second thing that has been bugging me slightly is that the R1200GS handuards (BMW OEM) do not quite have the coverage to block wind over the top of my hands at highway speed, so I ordered these:

Touratech part number 01-040-1701-0 , Spoilers for Original Hand Guards, added on and solve the problem!

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7191_0098.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7192_0099.jpg

[Save-the-Manatee]

1234de

[ka5ysy]

Last Sunday afternoon I ran over to the Hammond HD to kick cones for the Riders Edge class evaluations. After the evals were completed I geared up and was driving around the range in some of the exercise lanes as I usually do on the RR. According to witnesses I was in a 5mph left turn when the rear tire locked in a skid and stepped out to the right apparently in some damp sand on the asphalt surface. I am told that it appeared that the antilock controller decided at this point to release the rear brake with the predictable result that when the tire caught traction I did a spectacular snap-roll high side.

Net result of all this action was to do a low speed high impact body-slam on my right side which I have no memory of at all. Most of Sunday afternoon is erased from memory until later in the evening while I was in the ER finding out how I was doing. Medical findings : concussion and 4 fractured ribs with 2 days of observation to be sure I was not totally screwed up! The Docs were somewhat amazed that I required none of their drugs for pain as I was sore but nothing unbearable.

The RR was lightly damaged: Right cylinder head protector took most of the hit and was torn off cracking the rockerarm cover, the CeeBailey 20" shattered and squashed the mount, and the right side saddle bag got a scrape, as did the GS handguard on the right side. I was amazed how little damage the saddle bag took for the impact sustained, so the design is nicely energy absorbent.

Net result of all this is was a great example of why we should NEVER get on the machines without being fully geared up. I had the Shoei X-11 on as well as the full Motoport Airmesh II kevlar suit with all the tri-armor in place. The helmet took a very hard smack on the upper right side that would have been very bad without the helmet. Thanks, Shoei for a great product. Now I have to buy another one! The Motoport jacket and pants totally avoided any road rash, and the tri-armor in the arm and torso I firmly believe saved major shattered ribs and forearm by absorbing and spreading the impact energy. The right arm of the jacket shows a major scrape from the impact, and it looks like I did not eject from the bike, but simply snapped around the axis of rotation and impacted with the bike. The right boot has a good scrape on the toe area which apparently showed that the bike jammed my right foot down hard (foot was sore but no damage) in the fall.

So the final result is that I now know two disadvantages of the ABS on the RR, both having to do with the inability to switch it off in low speed situations. In low traction like the recent St. Francisville run, the loss of brakes down hill in the gravel was interesting, and now, with the rear brakes turning loose at low speed and causing a high-side that would not have happened if the brake simply stayed locked, I can't say that I would recommend a bike with an ABS system that cannot be turned off in possible low-traction situations. I still am a firm believer that they are superior for on-road survival and would not have a bike without them.

In this respect, the switchable brakes of the GS are much superior to the RR system and BMW should implement that feature on all their machines.

ATGATT always: It is a lifesaver even at low speed !

[Doug]

Sorry to hear about the get-off Doug but glad you were sportin' the gear!!!
Thanks for the post to remind the rest of us!

[2Evil4U]

Wow! Thankfully you weren't worse off. Heal quickly!

[Britton]

I wish well and a speedy recovery. Remember, leave the stunts up to me!:D

[ka5ysy]

I wish well and a speedy recovery. Remember, leave the stunts up to me!:D


Note to self: Snap-rolls are best performed in a Pitts at about 1500 feet or so... not an R1200R at 5 feet !:no:

[ka5ysy]

Ok.. finally I got around to uploading the photo of the damage results of the dump I took:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7207.jpg



Note that the Verholen cylinder protector ( part number 11059, R1200GS cylinder protection)
did not work. Looks good, but cannot take a solid hit and slide. ( part number 11059, R1200GS cylinder protection)

The "BEFORE" shot is here:
http://www.dualsportridersoflouisiana.com/forums/showpost.php?p=40446&postcount=79


As noted, the protectors use the cylinder head cover bolts to mount. Bad idea !.

I have put on some new engine guards from SW Motech and will post some photos asap. These things are way better protection for the cylinders, and look good. I used the black ones, and they complement the frame nicely. They are easy to mount and reasonably priced. (read: a lot cheaper than a magnesium rocker arm cover!)

[ka5ysy]

OK... I noticed that the server crash lost some of the photos of the latest upgrades on the RR.


Here are appropriate engine guards. They are a perfect match to the tubing in the chassis of the motorcycle, so look OEM, and provide a huge improvement over the BMW guards. SW-Motech makes great stuff ! Here is the mounting instruction sheet showing how they set up on the bike:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/SW-MOTECHBARS.jpg


Finished installation looks like this:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/HEBERTbikes2-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/HEBERTbikes1-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/MOTORCYCLEBARS7.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/MOTORCYCLEBARS4.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/MOTORCYCLEBARS2.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/MOTORCYCLEBARS1.jpg

FYI The windscreen is the Cal-Sci Medium height screen, since replaced with the "Tall" screen which is perfect for me. I will post some photos of the tall screen shortly.

The engine guards are great foot rests, and look to be a good mounting spot for some HID lighting.

[ka5ysy]

As a lot of us BMW owners have discovered, the original hand guards used on the R1200GS bikes have been discontinued and you cannot order replacement parts for them. Having already put the original style guards on my R1200R, I was faced with this situation after the dump I took in 2008, which scratched the face of the guard on the right side bar.

I ordered the new style BMW GS guard kit which contains new mounting brackets for the inside end of each guard, the lower and upper parts of the guards.

The kit is BMW Part Number 002 71607706209

The "tall" deflector BMW Part number is 002 71607705221

The original "Heavy" Throttlemeister bar ends will not work with the new style guards as they are too long, so I ordered the following Throttlemeister parts:

One FT set (bright silver bar ends)
Two OA1250 Outer Adapters
Two GR1250 Guard Retainers
Two SF855 Mounting bolts
Two IA400 Inner Adapters

Total cost of Throttlemeister parts were $131.60. When ordering, specify that you are mounting GS handguards on the R1200R so they can be certain of what you need.


The installation:

Left side install is easy..

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7724.jpg

Closeup of the bar end with the adapters in place:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7725.jpg


Here is the inboard clamp bracket for the left side guard. The switch on top of the reservoir is the PIAA switch for operating the HID lights described below:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7730.jpg

Closeup of the clamp bracket note that the bracket is a close fit that clears the clutch lever fluid reservoir without trouble. The actual bracket is the one that would normally go on the RIGHT side, but due to differences in the bar bend it works better on the LEFT hand guard. :

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7729.jpg



The Right side (throttle side) installation requires a small bit of fabrication to work properly due to the length of the brake cylinder assembly. Here is the overall view of the throttle side setup:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7726.jpg

This is the inboard bracket for the right side hand guard. Note that the clamp bracket is actually the one used on the LEFT side on the GS bikes. Notice the additional aluminum bracket extension between the actual clamp and the hand guard end. I fabricated this out of a piece of 1" aluminum bar stock I had in the shop. Closer view of the two brackets:


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7728.jpg




The small extension bracket is easy to fabricate. The piece of aluminum bar stock is one of those things that you find in any hardware store around the bar stock and threaded rods. I did a quick eyeball measurement and verified the length I would need then used a hacksaw to cut what I needed in the rough shape. A little trimming with the grinder wheel and then touch up with the Dremel tool got to the final size. The bend was put in with a vice clamp and a couple of taps with a hammer and adjusted to final shape. The matte or brushed finish was done with some fine grit sandpaper and then holding the new bracket between the two parts of the hand guard I marked the holes with a sharpie marker for drilling. Total fabrication time was about 15 minutes.


This is a view from the end of the handlebar showing the bend required to match the angles of the clamp bracket and the actual hand guard.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7727.jpg



The other addition to the bike is a set of HID auxiliary lights and brackets I purchased from Lumalink (Gordy Tool, Inc.) I purchased these after talking to James Gordy, the owner of Gordy Tool, on December 16, 2008. We had an absolutely delightful conversation about motorcycles and lights and other stuff for well over an hour, and he invited me to come up to Arkansas to see the operation. Sadly, I learned that Mr. Gordy died unexpectedly later in the month. He was a gentleman and it is my loss that I never was able to meet him in person.

Their site is here:

http://www.lumalink.com/

The brackets are the Split-Link Style Bracket set, and the lights are the Trail Tech SMR-16 HID Lights. These lights have built-in high voltage ballasts which greatly simplifies installation. The interesting thing to note is that these lights are the exact same thing that PIAA sells at considerably more cost. The wiring harness furnished with these lights is a latching relay setup that is very easy to install and tuck into a spot under the seat, and actually carries the PIAA logo on the switch!. They work great. One suggestion that I have is to order the "SPOT" rather than the FLOOD lamps. The spots are not that tight like a pencil beam and two will cover about a 30 degree wide area on each side of the bike with some overlap in the center.

By happy accident I had ordered two floods, and the set actually came with a spot and a flood which is the way PIAA sells their set. While doing the installation, I discovered the error and ordered a second spot to finish the installation. The floodlights in this size lamp spread the light too much for useful distance, but would work as turn or cornering lamps which I will probably install at some point.

Here is the setup:

View of the overall setup on the R1200R:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7719.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7720.jpg

Closeup of one of the lamps on the Lumalink bracket:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7721.jpg

Oblique View:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/DSC_7722.jpg



Overall, a good project doing useful upgrades to the bike.

Next Installment: Custom Seat. Stay Tuned ....

[allanj255]

Like the cylinder guards, very neat

[Juice]

This is the most viewed thread on all of DSRL, nice job Doug.

[Rocky]

Thanks for the update. That is one nicely setup motorcycle.

[ka5ysy]

I have gotten a chance to do some extended rides with tne new hand guards in place on the bike, with the "tall" BMW shields. Remember that you can order medium and tall shields in addition to the standard "low" versions. Interesting thing I noticed immediately with the tall shields is that there is a considerably greater wind noise being generated. This appears to be a result of a "stall burble" (pilots will understand this) due to the air separating from the top of the shield and forming an eddy current behind the shield which generates a lot of noise. The original GS guards that I replaced had the tall shield plus an aftermarket extension that did not make a lot of noise. I suspect that the difference is that the angle of the new version tall shield is too vertical and results in the stall burble.

I put the standard shields on this afternoon and took a ride, and the result was no noise at highway speeds. Of particular interest to me was where the airflow was over my gloves, and it is clearing my hands, so I will probably stay with the low shields in place.

Recommendation: stay with the low shields if you are going to do any high speed cruising. They are quite sufficient.

[ka5ysy]

I finally got a chance to go into the country away from any lighting on a dark, overcast night several days ago, and while riding, pushed the ON button for the HID's. They take about 15 seconds to be noticeable from a cold start, and then come up to full power after about a minute. It is like watching the sun come up on the horizon. The two spots throw a nice pool of light about a mile down the highway, and it is very, very easy to see what, if anything, is in the road. These are well worth the money. Way to go Trail Tech ! http://www.r1150r.org/board/images/smilies/eusa_clap.gif

BTW: When I turn them on during the day in heavy traffic, the cars and trucks do not move at all for way up the block as I come toward them. All the drivers were looking intently at the brilliant light and the headlight modulator on the main high beam lamp. It is good !!! http://www.r1150r.org/board/images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif

[ka5ysy]

I received my custom Rick Mayer seat today and put it on the RR. This seat is the leather 2-up seat. The fit and finish is outstanding, and the initial impression is that it is light-years ahead of the stock BMW torture rack that would become painful after an hour or so.

Ride report to follow ASAP ! The initial "Sit" test is that this is a total winner. I am off for a test ride !

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/rickmayer1-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/rickmayer2-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/rickmayer3-1.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/rickmayer4-1.jpg












http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/rickmayer5.jpg


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/rickmayer6.jpg

SEAT COMPARISON PHOTO:

Stock on left and Rick Mayer on the right. The color is correct in this photo.

The difference in the profile of the Mayer seat is apparent from the photo, but is REALLY apparent when you are riding this saddle.

The Big Test will have to wait until next week for Dr. Judy to try the rear, although I can say it is very comfortable just sitting on it in the driveway. This thing will be great when the break-in gets done with some riding.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/rickmayer.jpg


UPDATE: I just got back from the hour long ride and the comfort is outstanding. Usually after that period of time I had to get off the stock thing because my butt was in pain. This is a good sign !

Before anyone asks... Yes, I can still flatfoot the bike although my legs are spread just a little bit from the slightly wider profile at the front of the saddle.

[Ritten]

Thanks for the update. That is one nicely setup motorcycle.



No kidding! Time to sell that bad boy and start over again with a GS!

[Juice]

Very nice Doug!!!!

[ka5ysy]

No kidding! Time to sell that bad boy and start over again with a GS!


When I get my stimulus check....:redx2:

[ka5ysy]

Judy and I went for a long ride today.. about 350 miles total to give the Rick Mayer seat a good workout. This was the first time Judy had ridden the RR since the seat was installed, and she formally rated the seat as an absolute winner .

Usually we both had to get off after an hour and walk around with the stock seat, and were uncomfortable for any length of time. Not with this new seat.

The longest run we made was about 2 hours nonstop and the seat was still comfortable.


This seat is a winner, and well worth the price paid for it. Highly recommended .:1stplace:

[ka5ysy]

Today I did a 400 miler up to north Louisiana for business. Seat did outstanding, as did the RR. What a really nice day to get paid to ride the motorcycle on business :1stplace:

[ka5ysy]

Well, I am in the process of changing from the Conti Road Attacks to the Michelin Pilot Road 2 tires. Main reason for change is that I need a new front after 12K miles. It is a little worn now, so need to change. I have about 4K on the current rear, and they tend to run 2 rear to 1 front. The Road Attacks are very good tires, other than for a lot of road use, they tend to develop a square area on the contact patch area which makes for interesting turns when you run over the ridge. Nothing exciting, but still noticeable with the fast turn-in.

The general opinion on the PR2's is that they are a great upgrade from the Conti's, so we shall see starting tomorrow !

Stay Tuned .....

[ka5ysy]

TIRE UPDATE:

I have 2000 miles on the Michelin Pilot Road 2's now, and can report that they are very sticky in the twisties, probably as good as the Road Attacks that I had been running. There is no evidence of developing a flat spot like the Conti's did at this point. The dual-compound setup seems to be working great.

A side benefit that I have noticed is that the bike tracks very well hands off the bars. This was not really possible with the Conti's more than a couple of seconds at the time. Good indication that the center compound is hard and stable for long distance road work.


HID LAMP UPDATE:

I have noticed a curious problem with the HID lamps. They have developed a bad case of white fogging internally. It reminds me of what happens to a standard bulb takes a rock hit and burns out. I am going to contact the factory and see what the problem may be. The fogging actually developed immediately after the first use and has gotten progressivly worse. I am wondering if there is a design defect in the lamps.


To Be Continued ...

[allanj255]

Bump
Any updates on the 12R?

[ka5ysy]

Bump
Any updates on the 12R?

The RR is basically totally dialed in for me right now, and fully farkled (at least until something else strikes my fancy!)

I have added some high-power white LED running lights to the brackets under the HID lamps to avoid running the HID's as running lights. The only other real change was that I added the large top case to make riding 2-up with my lovely wife a bit easier. The backrest on the large case is a bit higher and more comfortable for her, plus the interesting benefit that I discovered for me is that Judy is not jammed into me when riding now.

We recently added the wiring for heated jacket liners and gloves for her. So long as she is warm, all is well, and the heated jacket and gloves did well for us in some cold weather riding a couple of weekends ago. The only other accessory change lately is that I pulled the helmet speakers out and replaced them with some custom earphone/earplugs that work much better with my Autocom setup. The helmet speakers were a hassle because they are always pressing my ears and the volume to listen to them with earplugs was a problem at times.

I am considering adding a new RT to the stable once I have a chance to look at it. The plan would be that the RT is the long-range cold/wet weather 2-up bike, and the RR is the warm weather commuter. The RT would not be a good hot weather bike for summers here because the wind protection is so good that it is very uncomfortable when our temperatures are 90+ degrees with high humidity. Judy likes the RT ride too, but I think that is because of the large top case, which I now have on the RR.

Long range plan is to replace the factory shocks with some Wilburs shocks .

Besides, everybody needs at least two bikes . Just in case.... :1stplace:

I will post some photos of the new top case mounted when it quits raining here.

[king4456]

think I saw you on 73 the other day, yes?

[allanj255]

How about the "problem" with the HID lamps?

[ka5ysy]

think I saw you on 73 the other day, yes?

Highly probable... I live in Lakes at Ascension subdivision right there at the intersection of 73 and 621.

[ka5ysy]

How about the "problem" with the HID lamps?


The HID lamps have been re-lamped on both sides now. The pencil beam lamps seem to fog more than the wide beams, but I have to say that the latest ones are not as bad for the run time on them as the originals. I fully believe that whoever is doing the lamp assembly is not using clean room techniques, and it probably handling the bulb capsules with bare hands, depositing oil on them that fogs the reflector assemblies.

I would probably not recommend these lamps to a new buyer at this point.

[65 Flathead]

Not being familiar with HID lamps, I'm guessing you're probably right, but for the sake of conversation, are they sealed beams or can the bulb be replace?

My headlight fogs up due to moisture and occasionally I have to remove it, take the bulb out, clean and dry everything and reassemble.

[ka5ysy]

The HID lamp assemblies are a sealed unit that cannot be opened. The actual xenon lamp capsule is inside the glass reflector unit and is attached to the base which is a ceramic carrier. Net result is that you cannot open the lamp to clean up the fogging.

Trailtech apparently is paying some attention to the fogging problem, because I have noticed a number of posts on the internet about this, and the problems with warranty claims. One posting noted that someone at Trailtech told them that the lamps were not meant for on-road continuous use. Hmmm... that kind of defeats the whole point of high-power lamps even off-road.


As noted in a previous post, the "flood lamp" bulbs I have in right now are not exhibiting anywhere near fogging of the originals. One does have a light foggy appearance, and the other is still clear after several hours of use. My assumption is that the message is getting to the manufacturer that they have a quality control problem and should not handle the xenon capsules with bare fingers.

[ka5ysy]

Ok.. here are photos of the latest farkles on the bike:


This is the large BMW top case (same is the R1200RT):

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/BMW-7.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/BMW-1.jpg

The strip of lights under the bracket are the Hyper-Lite "Hyper-White" running lights. They are very noticeable when riding. a great thing ! Notice the relatively clear appearance of the reflector on this lamp then look closely at the next photo:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/BMW-2.jpg

Notice the milky appearance in the reflector (at about the 2 o'clock position) ; this is the fogging that happens with these HID lamps as noted previously. These are the "Flood" or wide-angle lenses.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/BMW-3.jpg


Head-on view with the LED's lit... notice the burnout of the image !
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/BMW-4.jpg

LED's on, but off center.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/BMW-5.jpg


This is a view of the Heat-Troller from Warm-n-Safe that makes life really good in cold riding :

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/BMW-6.jpg


I am still working on how to tie this accessory into the CANBUS without overloading the alternator. If I get it hooked up it should make long trips much, much faster. Anybody got any ideas?


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/FLUXCAPACITOR.jpg

[art warner]

Just bought a new R1200R and it has 6 miles on it. It has snowed since I put it in my 3rd car garage in November. All I need are some hand guards for it, I just installed lights on it last week. I cant seem to find hand guards to fit the 2010, just up to a 2007 is on the market. I could use some help.

[ka5ysy]

Just bought a new R1200R and it has 6 miles on it. It has snowed since I put it in my 3rd car garage in November. All I need are some hand guards for it, I just installed lights on it last week. I cant seem to find hand guards to fit the 2010, just up to a 2007 is on the market. I could use some help.

Art: The bars are not changed on the bike at this point. My second "how to" post above uses the new GS handguards and the Throttlemeister bar ends and adapters.

[Juice]

Doug, was that you that i saw on hwy 16 this morning, about 6:00 am?

[ka5ysy]

Hi Brian! No, wasn't me. I have been working at home all day on legal stuff in process.

[Juice]

How many miles you got on her now? Ready to trade her in yet?

[ka5ysy]

Hi Brian! It's just under 25K now and still getting better and better! Have not found anything quite as versatile yet. The RT is interesting as is the GSA. I've been playing with the demo RT and the K1600GTL lately. I decided I am firmly an R bike lover. The K16 is a fine machine but not my kind of ride.

I am thinking of upgrading the shocks now. You need to check out the set of Krista LED lights I replaced the HID's with!!

[2Evil4U]

The Wilburs I put on the GSA were spectacular.

[ka5ysy]

As noted in prior posts, I added some Trail Tech HID lights to help with the early/late runs in the dark. The HID's are great except for several things:

1. They take about 30 seconds from a cold start to come up to full bright.

2. They do not like to be started and stopped.

3. They fog up internally probably due to poor assembly techniques by whoever manufactures the bulbs.

4. They do not last too long before you have to spend about $75 on replacements.


So, I had been watching the development of the high power LED lamps with some interest.


Clearwater Lights makes a couple of interesting products, and I decided to use the Kristas:

http://www.clearwaterlights.com/products2_pp.html


These are great lights for bikes because they give a nice bright white beam that really lights up the area in front of the bike. The combination of the headlamp modulator and all the LED lamps on makes the cagers really look at me (a good thing), and I have had several people actually pull over on the shoulder of the road, apparently thinking I am some kind of cop .

The results look like this:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/KRISTALIGHTSR1200R5.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/KRISTALIGHTSR1200R8.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/KRISTALIGHTSR1200R10.jpg


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/KRISTALIGHTSR1200R11.jpg


While I was doing the installation, I did not like the cheapo box the "volume control" pot was mounted in, so I fabricated a bracket to mount the switches and pot on:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/KRISTALIGHTSswitchesR1200R2.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/KRISTALIGHTSswitchesR1200R1.jpg



Since I had to pull into my wiring harness to wire in the new lights, I added a stand-alone fuse block to clean up the wiring:

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n15/ka5ysy/FUSEBLOCKINSTALLATIONR1200R2.jpg

[I_FLY_LOW]

How do they compare in brightness, over the HID's?

[ka5ysy]

How do they compare in brightness, over the HID's?


They are visually about equal to the HID's. Due to the way the reflectors differ on each it is hard to get any good measurements with a light meter. The only real difference I note is that the HID pencil beams throw a great deal further, but do not light the corners well at all. The LED's are a pretty good balance of distance vs. width of useable light pattern. Other than the expense, I like them, and realistically considering how many of the HID bulbs I replaced, the LED's are way better investment.