klr suspension

[I_FLY_LOW]

Has anyone done anything to upgrade their klr's suspension?
What did you do, or have done?
I have an 08, but figure overall, it's not much different than previous years.

[Swampy]

Eagle Mike Makes a raising link..


From his website...

These links are CNC machined from high strength aluminum solid bar stock, and hard anodized black.

These have been field tested for over a year now, and were originally designed for the (ahem) "standard" sized rider. A quick aside here - the KLR650 has ergonomics that are large enough for riders that can't get comfortable on smaller bikes. Sooooo - a lot of KLR650 riders are 200 lbs and up....The stock springing and shock damping seems to be set up for a rider of approximately 160 lbs, and a rider of 250 lbs soon realizes he has to run the preload max'd out, and often gets an uncomfortable ride. A new shock and spring assembly costs quite a bit of money. Even replacing a spring on the factory shock can be challenging for the average rider that doesn't have the proper tools.

The links can be changed easily with tools that would be used to accomplish standard maintenance on the KLR650, plus the addition of a small lift, jack, or sling. The change can be done in as little as 10 minutes. While you're doing the change, I would suggest you pull apart your entire rear suspension and lube everything, if you haven't done it before.

The original design, now called the RL-1 links, was set up to work with a rider 250 lbs or more. These met with great approval by all who met this criteria, but the links were too much for the 200 lb rider. The RL-2 links were then developed for the rider in the 200 to 250 lb range. There is some overlap. I realize that suspension setup and feel (ride characteristics) are subjective. Some of the 210 lb riders like the stronger links, as they ride mostly street, and often carry a passenger, or other load. Every rider that has actually installed and ridden with the links has been happy. If the damping in your factory shock is no longer functioning, these will not help! These links give the effect of a stronger spring and stronger damping. Many people have emailed me with positive feedback for these parts, and some of the remarks are here. Many other positive comments can be found on www.klr650.net, which is also a great place to learn about the KLR650, and meet other enthusiasts.

Retail $69.95 Easier to install than a spring, and cheaper. What's not to like?




Link if you are interested.. http://www.eagle-m-e.com/whatsnew.htm


I was eyeballing them ..But never did buy them ...You are taller than me they may be exactly what you need..

[I_FLY_LOW]

I'm looking to firm up the suspension, not pull a groin muscle! LOL...
Seriously, I like the height, I'd just like to work on firming up the suspension, and wondered how folks on here went about it, or if they just live with it...

I was looking at the moab shock, cogent suspension springs, and racetech emulator. I was wondering if anyone here ever used those, as well...

What does a emulator look like, what does it do, and where does it go, in the fork? The website says the springs are a simple drop in installation. How much do you have to take the forks apart, to get to the springs, and what has to be done to installl the eliminators?

[Swampy]

I have never adjusted that shock..Might want to turn it up some..

[CajunRider]

I'm looking to firm up the suspension, not pull a groin muscle! LOL...
Seriously, I like the height, I'd just like to work on firming up the suspension, and wondered how folks on here went about it, or if they just live with it...

I was looking at the moab shock, cogent suspension springs, and racetech emulator. I was wondering if anyone here ever used those, as well...

What does a emulator look like, what does it do, and where does it go, in the fork? The website says the springs are a simple drop in installation. How much do you have to take the forks apart, to get to the springs, and what has to be done to installl the eliminators?

Emulator basically turns the front forks into cartridge type instead of the el-cheap-o type that you have. I hear it does wonders, but never tried. To install, you have to disassemble the shocks, drill a couple holes, and install a little brass clunk of metal that does the magic.

I put 10 lbs of air in my front end ('07 model) and that did wonders for stiffening up the front end. I still get a bit of flex though... that's where the fork brace might help.

The '08s don't have the air valve on the front, but I've seen people drill a hole in the cap and put a valve without problems. The rest of the shock is the same thing (although slightly larger) so air CAN be added... but keep it under 15 lbs. (And please use a hand pump... a compressor will blow out the seals before you can blink.) If you don't feel like drilling parts, you can simply add a spacer in each side, or change out to heavier springs.

The rear is adjustable (Preload), so just go up a notch or two there and try it out.

[I_FLY_LOW]

I may give the adjustment a shot. Thanks!

[CajunRider]

The adjustment on the rear is quite simple... but remember to lift the back tire off the ground when you adjust. There have been cases where people put too much pressure on the bolt and break it. If the back end is in the air, it takes the pressure off so there's no danger of breaking stuff.

[mattc]

CajunRider described the emulators perfectly. I put a set in the SV, and it was a night and day difference. KLR forks are similar in design to mine, you shouldn't have to mess with seals or anything like that to install them.


The air pressure adjustment is a different way to adjust preload, as well as more bottoming resistance, correct? What is Kawasaki's pressure recommendation?

[Swampy]

Kawasaki recommends 0 PSI..LOL... But I have heard of lots of guys running 5 to 10 ... But for the record.. New front springs are about $70

Its not that expensive but drilling and tapping the cap is not that hard either ad can be done for about $10.. So ...Its up to you..

[I_FLY_LOW]

I'm 245-250 ish range, and when I get on the bike, it settles pretty far.
I figure if I load it down on trips, and take to some off roading, I may be pusing towards bottoming out the suspension...

My dr would do the same thing... I'm just looking for improvement...
Hey, it's farkle time, baby!

But, too, without a manual, I have no idea how to set this thing up...
I have one on the way, so I can get myself a bit more edumacated on what i can do for it...

[CajunRider]

At 250ish range, I don't think 10 lbs will do you much good. 20 lbs may work better, but you're getting close to the max pressure there. Your best bet would be heavier springs front and back, with possibly a fork brace to sure things up.

Of course, you'll probably find the same to be true on almost ANY bike you buy. These things are designed for the "average" 140 pound rider... it's quite a joke. I weigh in at 160, so I can get away with minor changes, but even then, I've bottomed out the KLR many times.

Oh... if you do change the spring on the back, DON'T go progressive... the linkage does that already. Leave the back as a standard rate spring, but go progressive up front.